Ocean Blue Hydrangea Crochet Dress Free Crochet Pattern

I pulled this pattern from my “someday” folder last spring, and I am so glad I finally did! I sketched this dress after visiting a friend’s garden where the hydrangeas were blooming in every shade of blue and teal you could imagine, and I wanted to capture that cascading, cloud-like feeling in crochet.

This dress combines a fitted single crochet bodice, a decorative open mesh waist section, a gathered soft tulle underskirt, and 54 handmade three-dimensional hydrangea flowers arranged in cascading layers. The effect is dreamy and dimensional, like wearing a garden.

It is written for an adult small with a fitted bodice and negative ease at the bust, so choose your size based on your actual body measurements. The tulle skirt is intentionally full and voluminous. Take your time and trust the checkpoints along the way!

Materials

• 280 yards (256 m) DK or light worsted cotton yarn in Main Blue
• 160 yards (146 m) DK or light worsted cotton yarn in Medium Blue
• 170 yards (155 m) DK or light worsted cotton yarn in Aqua
• 120 yards (110 m) DK or light worsted cotton yarn in Seafoam
• 90 yards (82 m) DK or light worsted cotton yarn in Mint
• Soft aqua tulle: 2 panels, each 60 inches x 23 inches (152 cm x 58 cm), plus an optional extra yard for a fuller hem
• 2.75 mm (US C/2) crochet hook, or the size needed to achieve gauge
• Tapestry needle and sewing needle with matching thread
• Stitch markers
• Scissors and measuring tape
• Pins or clips
• Dress form or hanger for flower placement

Abbreviations

• approx: approximately
• beg: beginning
• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dc-cl: double crochet cluster
• FLO: front loop only
• rep: repeat
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sc2tog: single crochet two together
• sk: skip
• sl st: slip stitch
• sp: space
• st(s): stitch(es)
• yo: yarn over

Special Stitches

• Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog): insert your hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert your hook in the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. One stitch decreased.
• Double Crochet Cluster Petal (dc-cl): yarn over, insert hook in the indicated stitch or ring, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Leave 2 loops on your hook. Repeat this movement two more times in the same place. You now have 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops to close the petal center.

Gauge & Size

• Finished size: adult small; bust approximately 26.8 inches (68 cm), waist 23.6 inches (60 cm), total length from strap to hem about 33.5 inches (85 cm)
• Gauge: 22 single crochet stitches and 24 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) in joined single crochet after light blocking; 8 mesh rounds = approximately 2.4 inches (6 cm) tall
• Construction: bodice worked in joined rounds from the waist upward, straps sewn on, gathered tulle underskirt hand sewn at the waist, 54 crochet flowers sewn onto the tulle
• Skill level: Intermediate (adventurous)

Pattern Notes

The bodice is worked in joined rounds from the waist upward. Join each round with a slip stitch to the first single crochet. The chain 1 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Use stitch markers at both side points: place one marker after stitch 66 and another after stitch 132 on the first waist round. These will help you track your shaping. The mesh waist uses a 4-stitch repeat, so keep the waist count at 132 stitches and 33 mesh repeats will fit evenly.

Flowers are sewn only to the tulle and lower edge of the mesh, not through the tight bodice fabric except at the waistline anchor points. This keeps the bodice smooth and comfortable.

Part 1: The Mesh Waist

Begin at the waist with Main Blue or Aqua yarn.

Foundation: Chain 132, taking care not to twist your chain. Join with a slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (132 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, (sc in next st, ch 5, sk 3 sts) around. Join to first sc. (33 ch-5 loops, 33 sc anchors)

Round 3: Sl st into first ch-5 sp, ch 1, (sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5) around. Join. (33 loops)

Rounds 4 to 7: Repeat Round 3 four more times. (33 loops each round)

Round 8: Ch 1, work 4 sc in each ch-5 sp around. Join. (132 sc)

Checkpoint: your mesh panel should be 8 rounds tall with 33 even diamond shapes around the circumference. If your mesh twists or pulls in, block it gently before continuing to the upper bodice.

Part 2: The Upper Bodice

Continue working in Main Blue. Remember, chain 1 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch. Join each round.

Round 9: Sc in each st around. (132 sc)

Round 10: (Sc in next 21 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (138 sc)

Rounds 11 to 14: Sc in each st around. (138 sc)

Round 15: (Sc in next 22 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (144 sc)

Rounds 16 to 20: Sc in each st around. (144 sc)

Round 21: (Sc in next 23 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times. (150 sc)

Rounds 22 to 47: Sc in each st around. (150 sc)

Rounds 48 to 52: For a snug upper chest, sc in each st around. (150 sc)

Round 53: (Sc in next 23 sts, sc2tog) 6 times. (144 sc)

Rounds 54 to 60: Sc in each st around. (144 sc)

Upper Edge: Ch 1, reverse sc or regular sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (144 sts)

Fit Checkpoint: after Round 8, your mesh waist should measure about 23.6 inches (60 cm) around and 2.4 inches (6 cm) tall. After Round 60, your bodice should measure about 26.8 inches (68 cm) around at the upper edge and 11 inches (28 cm) tall from waist to top edge.

Part 3: Straps

Marking Strap Placement: lay your bodice flat with the side markers aligned. The front and back each have 72 stitches. On the front, count 14 stitches inward from each side marker and place a marker. On the back, count 18 stitches inward from each side marker and place a marker. Try the bodice on and adjust by 1 to 2 stitches if needed before sewing.

Row 1: Ch 62 for a 15.5 inch (39 cm) strap. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (61 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. Fasten off, leaving long tails. (61 sc)

Make 2 straps. Sew each strap securely to the marked front and back points. Reinforce with a small square of stitching at each end.

Strap Checkpoint: the strap length should hold the upper edge in place without pulling the arm opening upward. Shorten or lengthen before weaving in ends.

Optional Inner Elastic: for extra security, especially if you plan to wear this dress for dancing or an event, sew 1/4 inch (6 mm) soft elastic inside the top edge. Use the wearer’s high bust measurement minus 1 inch (2.5 cm), then overlap and sew the elastic ends.

Part 4: The Tulle Underskirt

Cut two tulle rectangles, each 60 inches x 23 inches (152 cm x 58 cm). Stack them with the bottom edges aligned. The hem is left raw for a soft floating edge; you will trim it evenly after assembly.

Run two rows of long gathering stitches along the top edge, 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch (6 mm and 12 mm) from the edge. Gather until the top edge measures 23.6 inches (60 cm), matching the crochet waist.

With the right side of the bodice facing out, place the gathered tulle inside the waist so the tulle top sits just under the mesh. Pin evenly at the side markers, center front, and center back.

Hand sew through the tulle and the lower edge of the mesh/waist round. Keep your stitches small and even.

Skirt Checkpoint: your top gathered edge should equal 23.6 inches (60 cm). The bottom circumference from the two full panels is about 120 inches (304 cm) before layering, giving you a very full, cloud-like hem.

Part 5: Hydrangea Flower Motifs

Make 54 flowers total in the following color breakdown: 18 in Main/Medium Blue, 14 in Aqua, 12 in Seafoam, and 10 in Mint. Each flower finishes approximately 2 to 2.25 inches (5 to 5.5 cm) across.

Center: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 10 sc into the ring. Pull tight and join to first sc. (10 sc)

Petals: (Sl st in next st, ch 2, dc-cl in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st, sl st in next st) 5 times. (5 petals)

Layered Option: for a fuller bloom, turn your work slightly and sew a second finished flower behind the first, offsetting the petals. Use this layered option for 18 of your 54 flowers.

Finishing: leave a 10 inch (25 cm) tail for sewing. Steam lightly from the back only. Do not flatten petals.

Finishing & Assembly

Arrange all your flowers before sewing anything down. Use a mix of single and layered blooms so the skirt has depth without becoming too heavy.

Top floral row: 2 to 5 inches (5 to 13 cm) from the waist, 18 flowers, approximately 1 every 3.75 inches (9.5 cm).

Middle floral row: 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the waist, 18 flowers, offset between the top flowers.

Lower floral row: 14 to 18 inches (36 to 46 cm) from the waist, 18 flowers, clustered in uneven groups of 2 to 3.

Pin the dress on a form or hanger so the tulle hangs naturally. Begin at center front with 3 large layered blooms, then work outward toward the sides. Sew each flower through the center and under two petal edges only, and leave some petal edges lifted for dimension. Overlap flowers slightly at the waistline and scatter them more openly toward the lower skirt.

Check weight after every 12 flowers. If the tulle begins to sag, add two hidden anchor stitches from the flower center into the mesh waist above.

Steam the bodice lightly over a towel without stretching the upper edge. Do not press flowers flat; steam from the back and shape petals with your fingers while they are still warm. Hang the dress for 12 hours, then trim any uneven tulle at the hem. Secure any heavy flower clusters with additional hidden stitches.

Tips

For bust and upper bodice adjustments, add or subtract multiples of 6 stitches after Round 21. At gauge, 6 stitches equals about 1.1 inches (2.7 cm) of circumference.

For waist adjustments, the mesh repeat is 4 stitches. Add or subtract repeats in groups of 4 stitches and adjust the number of ch-5 loops accordingly.

For length adjustments, add or remove single crochet rounds above the mesh. At row gauge, 6 rounds equals about 1 inch (2.5 cm).

If your flowers droop, use cotton yarn with a firm twist and sew through the flower center plus two hidden petal points.

Care: this dress is delicate. Hand wash cold only when needed, do not bleach, do not wring, and lay flat to dry with the skirt supported. Store hanging with the skirt supported, or flat in a breathable garment bag.