Crochet Mesh Sweater Pattern – Yarn Items

I love a sweater with real personality, and this oversized mesh sweater has it in every row! We will build it from two colourful panels that mix five different row patterns, so the fabric is full of movement, texture, and lovely open mesh sections that keep it light and flowing.

The fit is wonderfully flexible because the sweater is made to measure. Your foundation chain controls the panel width, you simply keep adding rows until the length feels right, and the armhole depth you leave when seaming controls how wide your sleeves will be.

You can work it in up to eight colours like the sample, mix yarn textures, or keep it in one solid shade for a calmer look. However you colour it, those alternating mesh rows are going to shine!

Materials

• DK and Aran weight yarns in up to 8 colours in total (the sample combines 4 acrylic DK yarns, 3 cotton DK yarns, and 1 Merino wool Aran-weight yarn), or one solid shade if you prefer
• 4.5 mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• Yarn or tapestry needle, for weaving in tails and sewing seams

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• st/sts: stitch / stitches
• sk: skip
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• dtr: double treble crochet

Gauge & Size

• Finished size: oversized sweater, made to measure; foundation chain must be a multiple of 3 + 2 and should measure slightly wider than your shoulders
• Construction: two identical flat panels, shoulder and side seams, sleeves worked in the round around the armhole edge
• Skill level: Intermediate

Main Panels

Make 2 panels the same. Work over your yarn tails whenever you can while crocheting, as this reduces the loose ends you need to weave in later.

Colour changes: when finishing any row of sc or hdc, do not pull the current yarn through the final 2 loops of the last stitch. Pick up the new colour and pull it through those 2 loops, then ch 1 to secure, and cut the old yarn leaving a tail. This places the colour change right into the final stitch so the next row begins cleanly.

Row 1, Single Crochet: Make a slip knot and ch 74, or any multiple of 3 + 2. Skip the first ch and work 1 sc into the second ch from hook, then work sc into every ch across for 73 sc total. On the final sc, change to the next colour.

Row 2, Double Crochet Mesh: With the new colour, ch 5 (counts as 1 dc plus ch 2) and turn. Sk the first 3 sts including the base st and work 1 dc into the 4th st, then (ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 dc in next st) repeat across the row. Change to the next colour on the final dc.

Row 3, Treble Crochet Mesh: Ch 6 (counts as 1 tr plus ch 2) and turn. Sk the ch-2 sp and work 1 tr into the top of the next dc, then (ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, 1 tr into next dc) repeat across. At the row end, ch 2, sk 2 chs from the turning chain, and work 1 tr into the 3rd chain. Change to the next colour.

Row 4, Half Double Crochet Solid: Ch 1 and turn. Work 1 hdc into the first st at the top of the tr, work 2 hdc into the next ch-2 sp, then (work 1 hdc into next tr, then 2 hdc into next ch-2 sp) repeat across. Work the final hdc into the turning chain and change to the next colour on the final stitch.

Keep exactly 2 hdc in each ch-2 space on Row 4. Adding extra stitches here would unintentionally widen your panel.

Row 5, Double Treble Mesh: Ch 7 (counts as 1 dtr plus ch 2) and turn. Sk the next 2 sts and work 1 dtr into the 3rd st, then (ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 dtr into 3rd st) repeat across. Change to the next colour on the final stitch.

Continue mixing these 5 rows in any order and colour combination you like until your panel reaches your desired length, whether that is cropped or full length. Your five textures are single crochet solid, double crochet mesh, treble crochet mesh, half double crochet solid, and double treble mesh, and you can change colour with every row or follow repeating colour groups.

Final Row: Make sure the final panel row is single crochet, and leave a long yarn tail for sewing. Make the second panel identically, matching width and length, then lay both panels together to compare side edges, row count, colour order, and final width before you assemble.

Joining the Panels

Place the front and back panels together with right sides facing inward and wrong sides facing outward for sewing, using the long yarn tail and your yarn needle.

Shoulder Seams: Sew from the outside corners inward, joining approximately 18 sc stitches for each shoulder as shown in the tutorial. Secure the yarn and weave in the ends, and keep both shoulder seams equal in length so the neckline stays centred.

Side Seams: Keep the sweater wrong-side-out and begin at the bottom hem, sewing upward toward the armpit. Line up matching row types on both panels, keeping dc beside dc and tr beside tr, and stop once your desired armhole width is reached. The sample sews approximately 11 rows upward from the bottom. Secure the yarn and weave in the ends.

Check your armhole carefully here, because that opening directly determines your sleeve width. Try the sweater on, or compare the opening against your intended fit, before completing the second side.

Sleeves

Turn the sweater right-side-out before beginning the sleeve rounds. The sleeves are worked around the raw armhole edge, and the spacing accounts for the different row heights so the sleeve does not flare or bulge.

For open mesh rounds, fasten off by chaining 1 and cutting the yarn, then reattach the next colour with a slip knot directly into the same space.

Round 1, Single Crochet Base: Attach yarn with sl st directly at the armpit where the side seams meet, and work sc evenly around the raw armhole edge. Use approximately 5 sc along the side of each dtr row, 1 sc along the side of each sc row, and 2 sc along the side of each hdc row. When you reach the beginning, sl st to the first sc and switch to the next colour on the final loop pull-through.

Round 2, Double Crochet Mesh: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc plus ch 2), sk 2 sts and work 1 dc into the 3rd st, then (ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 dc in next st) repeat around. When you reach the beginning, ch 2 and sl st into the 3rd ch of the starting ch-5, even if slightly more or fewer than 2 sts remain. Ch 1, cut the yarn, and pull through to fasten off.

Round 3, Treble Crochet Mesh: Reattach the next colour in the same sl st space. Ch 6 (counts as 1 tr plus ch 2), then (work 1 tr above next dc, ch 2) repeat around. Sl st into the 4th ch of the starting ch-6, ch 1, cut the yarn, and fasten off.

Round 4, Half Double Crochet Solid: Attach a new colour in the same sl st space, ch 1, and work 1 hdc into the same space. Work 2 hdc in each ch-2 space and 1 hdc directly into each tr around. On the final hdc, change to the next colour and sl st to the first hdc.

Round 5, Double Treble Mesh: Ch 7 (counts as 1 dtr plus ch 2), sk 2 sts and work 1 dtr into the 3rd st, then (ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 dtr in next st) repeat around. Ch 2 and sl st into the 5th ch of the starting ch-7, ch 1, cut the yarn, and fasten off.

Continue repeating and mixing the sleeve rounds in your preferred sequence until the sleeve reaches your wrist or your desired stopping point. Because acrylic yarn can stretch slightly with wear, check the sleeve length while wearing the sweater before adding the final rounds, then repeat the exact sleeve process on the opposite side.

Neckline & Finishing

Your neckline can stay wide for off-the-shoulder styling, or you can tighten it for a more standard fit. To adjust it, thread a darning needle and sew 10 to 12 stitches together on both sides of the top neckline, sewing gradually and checking the opening after each side so you do not close it too much at once.

Before weaving in every remaining tail, lay the sweater flat and compare both sleeves. Check that the shoulder seams match in width, the side seams stop at equal heights, both armholes have a similar circumference, the sleeve stitch sequence matches your colour plan, the mesh spaces stay open and even, the neckline sits at your preferred width, and the body reaches your desired length.

Once the fit and alignment look right, weave in all remaining yarn tails with your tapestry needle and enjoy your colourful, textured sweater!

Tips

Mixing yarn types and textures is encouraged in this design, so raid your stash and have fun with the colour placement.

Keep your skipped stitches consistent on the mesh rows so your panel edges stay lovely and even.

Measure your armhole opening before sewing the side seams permanently, as a larger opening creates a wider sleeve and a smaller opening creates a narrower one.