Christmas Heart Lace Table Runner Crochet Pattern

Hi, I am Amy, and this table runner is a true showstopper. Four gorgeous filet hearts with delicate lace borders and scalloped edges join together into a runner that looks incredibly intricate, yet if you can work a double crochet and follow a simple repeat, you have absolutely got this.

Each heart is worked in filet-style mesh from the bottom point up toward the cleft, then finished with a white scalloped border and a fine green surface line between the red heart and the white lace. You make four identical hearts, block them, and join them with a small overlap. No joining as you go, and no confusing charts.

The cranberry red and snow white combination is festive and elegant for Christmas, and the finished runner makes a stunning centrepiece or a truly special holiday gift. This one is written for intermediate crocheters, though confident beginners who take their time will do beautifully.

Materials

• Cranberry red mercerized cotton sport weight yarn (Colour A): approximately 700 metres, plus 15% extra
• Snow white mercerized cotton sport weight yarn (Colour B): approximately 500 metres, plus 15% extra
• Forest green cotton: approximately 30 metres for the decorative surface line
• 3 mm crochet hook, or size needed to achieve gauge
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• 8 stitch markers
• Ruler
• Blocking pins
• Blocking mat or towels

Abbreviations

• CH: chain
• SL ST: slip stitch
• SC: single crochet
• HDC: half double crochet
• DC: double crochet
• ST/STS: stitch/stitches
• SP: space
• RS/WS: right side/wrong side
• REP: repeat

Special Stitches

• DC2TOG: work a double crochet until 2 loops remain on the hook, work another double crochet in the next stitch until 3 loops remain, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops
• SC2TOG: a decrease that joins 2 single crochet stitches into 1
• Increase: work 2 stitches into one stitch

Gauge & Size

• Gauge: 20 DC and 11 rows equals 10 cm square, measured before adding the edging
• Each heart measures approximately 30 to 35 cm wide and 31 to 34 cm tall after blocking
• Finished runner: approximately 110 to 120 cm long, with the four hearts overlapped by 3 to 5 cm
• The heart body reaches a maximum width of 49 DC positions, which should measure about 24.5 cm
• Note: turning chains do not count as a stitch unless a step explicitly says otherwise

Heart Body

Make four identical hearts in Colour A, working from the lower point upward toward the cleft.

Row 1: CH 4. Work 3 DC in the fourth chain from the hook. The unused chains are foundation only, not a fourth stitch. Turn. (3 DC)

Row 2: CH 2, work 2 DC in the first stitch, DC in the middle stitch, 2 DC in the last stitch. Turn. (5 sts)

Rows 3 to 24: Each row increases by 2 stitches in total. Work 2 DC in the first stitch, continue across the middle following the lace rule below, then work 2 DC in the last stitch. Row n will have 2n+1 positions.

Stitch count checkpoints: Row 6 should have 13 positions. Row 12 should have 25 positions. Row 18 should have 37 positions. Row 24 should have 49 positions.

Lace rule: On rows divisible by 3 (rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24), after the first increase, work (CH 1, skip the next position, DC in the next position) as many times as possible before the last 2 old positions. Then CH 1, skip the penultimate position, and work 2 DC in the last position. All other rows are solid double crochet with no chain spaces.

Example, Row 3: 2 DC (increase), CH 1 and skip, DC, CH 1 and skip, 2 DC (increase). (7 positions)

Rows 25, 26, and 28: DC in every position. (49 sts)

Row 27: DC in the first stitch, then work (CH 1, skip 1, DC in the next) 24 times. This creates 25 DC plus 24 CH 1 spaces.

After Row 28, fasten off.

Shaping the Two Lobes

With the right side facing you, count across Row 28. Mark position 25 for the central cleft and leave it unworked. The left lobe uses positions 1 through 24, and the right lobe uses positions 26 through 49. Work each lobe separately.

Lobe Row 1: Join Colour A at the outside edge for the first lobe and work DC in 24 positions. For the second lobe, join at the cleft side and work 24 positions, so both lobes mirror each other. Turn. (24 sts)

Lobe Row 2: CH 2, DC2TOG, DC in the next 20 stitches, DC2TOG. Turn. (22 sts)

Lobe Row 3: CH 2, DC2TOG, DC in the next 18 stitches, DC2TOG. Turn. (20 sts)

Lobe Row 4: CH 2, DC2TOG, DC in the next 16 stitches, DC2TOG. Turn. (18 sts)

Lobe Row 5: CH 2, DC2TOG, DC in the next 14 stitches, DC2TOG. Turn. (16 sts)

Lobe Row 6: CH 2, DC2TOG, DC in the next 12 stitches, DC2TOG. Turn. (14 sts)

Lobe Row 7: CH 2, DC2TOG, DC in the next 10 stitches, DC2TOG. Fasten off. (12 sts)

Work the second lobe exactly the same way.

Smooth body edge: Join Colour A at the lower point. SC evenly around the entire heart body, using approximately 2 SC per double crochet row end, 1 SC per top stitch, and 3 SC at the bottom point. At the deepest part of the cleft, work SC2TOG to prevent a gap. Join with a SL ST and fasten off. This is an eased edging, not a fixed-count round; the goal is a flat, smooth edge.

Lace and Scallop Border

Switch to Colour B (snow white).

Round 1, outline: Join Colour B at the bottom point. SC in each edging stitch around the heart. At the middle point stitch, work (SC, CH 2, SC). At the cleft, work SC2TOG over the 2 central stitches. Join with a SL ST. Record your edging stitch count and repeat it for the remaining hearts.

Round 2, mesh: SL ST into the point space. CH 1, then work (SC, CH 5, SC) in the point. Continue around working CH 5, skip 2 stitches, SC in the next stitch. At the cleft, use CH 3 instead of CH 5. Adjust the final skip to 1 or 3 stitches if needed so the round works out evenly. Join to the first SC and mark the point loop.

Round 3, mesh: SL ST into the first CH 5 loop. CH 1, SC into the loop. Work CH 5, SC in the next loop around the heart. At the point, work (SC, CH 5, SC) in the marked point loop. At the cleft, use CH 3 again. Join to the first SC.

Round 4, fans: SL ST into the first loop. In each regular loop, work (SC, HDC, 5 DC, HDC, SC), 9 stitches per fan. In the cleft loop only, work (SC, HDC, DC, HDC, SC), a smaller 5-stitch fan. Join and fasten off.

Round 5, fine edge: Switch back to Colour A. Join anywhere along the border. SL ST loosely in each fan stitch, working CH 1 between neighbouring fans. Join invisibly, fasten off, and weave in your ends. If the edge pulls in, use a larger hook for this round.

Green detail: With the forest green cotton, work a surface SL ST around the boundary between the red heart and the white edging, working into every second Colour B stitch with CH 1 between insertions. Keep each loop loose, and keep the green line on the heart side of the lace.

Finishing & Assembly

Block each heart individually: soak briefly following your yarn label, press gently between towels, then pin each piece to identical dimensions. Shape the two lobes evenly and open each lace loop gently. Let them dry completely before joining.

Arrange all four hearts facing the same direction in a line. Place the point of heart 2 over the cleft of heart 1, overlapping approximately 3 to 5 cm, and repeat for hearts 3 and 4.

Using matching thread or split cotton yarn, make small whipstitches only where the two lace borders touch, securing an area approximately 6 to 8 cm wide at each overlap. Keep the joins flat, with no dangling loops underneath.

Tips

Please make your gauge swatch: if your gauge is off, all four hearts will still match each other better if you keep the same hook and tension throughout.

Record the Round 1 edging count on the first heart and repeat it exactly, so all four borders line up at joining time.

Hand wash the finished runner in cool water, avoid wringing, and lay it flat to dry, reshaping all the scallops while damp.

Place a protective layer beneath hot serving dishes so your beautiful work stays beautiful.