Pastel Rainbow Granny Square Tote Free Crochet Pattern

Granny square bags can look intimidating, I know. All those little motifs, all that joining, all those yarn ends! But here is the truth: if you can double crochet and chain, you can absolutely make this bag. Every square uses the exact same four rounds, and the rhythm becomes second nature after just two or three squares.

We will build this pastel rainbow tote from thirty-four little flower squares in soft pastel shades, all framed in crisp cream borders. We make the squares, lay them out, join them into panels, then add a simple top border and sturdy folded handles. No complicated shaping and no confusing decreases, just satisfying repetition and a gorgeous finished bag.

It is also the perfect pattern for using up those cotton scraps you have been saving. That half skein of mint, that leftover peach, that butter yellow you bought because it was pretty. Grab them all, because this tote wants every soft shade you have got!

Materials

• DK weight cotton yarn, cream or ivory (main colour and borders): approximately 250 g (460 yd / 420 m)
• DK weight cotton yarn in six pastel colours: approximately 25 to 30 g each (45 yd / 41 m each), such as pink, lavender, mint, peach, blue and butter yellow
• Small amount of one pale accent colour for flower centres, pulled from your pastel stash
• 4.0mm (US G/6) crochet hook
• Tapestry needle or yarn needle, for joining and weaving ends
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Optional: cotton fabric plus needle and thread if you want to add a lining

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• dc: double crochet
• st(s): stitch(es)
• sp: space
• rnd: round
• beg: beginning
• rep: repeat
• MR: magic ring

Special Stitches

• 3-dc Granny Group: three double crochet stitches worked into the same space. This little fan is the building block of every granny square round.
• Corner: a cluster of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) worked into one corner space. This is what turns the corner and keeps your square flat and square.

Gauge & Size

• Gauge: one finished flower granny square (4 rounds) measures 3 inches (7.5 cm) square with a 4.0mm hook. Quick check: after Round 2, your square should sit flat at about 1.5 inches (4 cm) across
• Finished size: approximately 12 x 10 x 3 inches (30 x 25 x 7.5 cm), with a comfortable 9-inch (23 cm) handle drop
• Construction: 34 identical 4-round squares joined with a slip stitch join through the back loops into front, back, side and base panels, finished with a sc top border and folded sc handles
• Skill level: Easy to advanced beginner

A few notes before we start. The bag needs 34 squares in total: 12 for the front, 12 for the back, 3 for each side panel (6 total), and 4 for the base strip. Every square follows the same four rounds; only the centre and petal colours change, and Rounds 3 and 4 are always cream. The starting ch-3 counts as the first dc on each round unless noted, and at the end of each round we join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3, then slip stitch across into the next corner space. Please weave in your ends as you go. With 34 squares, you will thank yourself later!

Flower Granny Square Pattern

Make 34 squares total. Round 1 is your centre colour (pick something bright), Round 2 is your petal colour (a contrasting pastel), and Rounds 3 and 4 are always cream. Mix your pastels freely from square to square for that beautiful scattered rainbow effect.

Round 1 (Centre colour): Into a magic ring: ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. Pull the ring closed tight. (12 dc, 4 corner spaces)

Round 2 (Petal colour): Sl st into the next ch-2 corner space. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same space, [ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner space] 3 times, ch 1. Join to top of beg ch-3. (24 dc, 8 groups)

Round 3 (Cream): Sl st into the next corner space. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner space; rep twice more, ch 1, 3 dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1. Join. (36 dc, 12 groups)

Round 4 (Cream): Sl st into the next corner space. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same space, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space] twice, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner space; rep twice more, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space] twice, ch 1. Join and fasten off. (48 dc, 16 groups)

After Round 4 your square should measure 3 inches (7.5 cm). I like to gently steam-block each square to the same size before joining. This small step makes assembly so much quicker and neater. The stitch counts follow a satisfying pattern too: 12 dc on Round 1, 24 on Round 2, 36 on Round 3 and 48 on Round 4, because each round adds one extra 3-dc group to every side.

Finishing & Assembly

Layout: you need 12 squares for the front panel (4 across x 3 down), 12 for the back panel (4 across x 3 down), 6 for the side panels (1 across x 3 down, make 2) and 4 for the base strip (4 across x 1 down). Before you start joining, lay out all your squares and shuffle them around until you love the arrangement, then take a photo so you remember the layout. Pair a brighter centre with a softer petal ring on each flower, and scatter your six pastels so no two identical squares sit side by side.

Joining into panels: using cream yarn and with right sides together, slip stitch through the back loops along each seam. Join all the vertical seams first, then the horizontal seams. You will end up with five flat pieces: front, back, two sides, and base.

Building the box: slip stitch the base strip to the lower edge of the front panel (4 squares to 4 squares). Then add the back panel to the opposite long edge of the base. You now have an open box shape.

Setting in the sides: slip stitch each 1 x 3 side panel into place, joining it to the side edges of the front, the back, and the short end of the base to form the gusset. After this step, your bag holds its shape. At each base corner, work an extra slip stitch or two to draw the seam in neatly, which helps the bag stand square.

Top border Round 1: Join cream yarn at a top side seam. Single crochet evenly around the whole opening, working 1 sc in each stitch and easing around corners so the edge lies flat. Join with a slip stitch.

Top border Rounds 2 to 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join. These three smooth rounds firm up the rim and give a clean finished edge.

Handles (make 2): Mark two points on the front rim, centred and about 5 inches (13 cm) apart, and mark the back to match. With cream yarn, ch 9. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (8 sc). Working in rows, sc in each stitch across for approximately 18 inches (46 cm). This creates a long strap that folds into a sturdy double-thick handle, and you can adjust the length for your preferred handle drop. Fold each strap lengthwise and single crochet or whip stitch the long edges together for strength. Stitch the handle ends firmly to the inside of the rim at your marked points, reinforcing with several passes of yarn. Repeat for the second handle, matching the drop exactly.

Weave in every remaining end on the wrong side of your work and trim close. Gently steam-block or wet-block the entire bag, shaping the corners square and the rim even, and let it dry fully while stuffed with a towel to help it hold its form. For an optional lining, cut cotton fabric to the inside dimensions plus seam allowance, sew it into a simple pouch shape, and hand-stitch it just below the top border.

Tips

For heavier loads, slip a length of cotton cord or webbing inside each folded handle strap before seaming. This invisible support prevents the handles from stretching over time.

Care is easy: hand wash in cool water with mild detergent, reshape while damp and dry flat away from direct heat or sun to keep your pastels bright. Avoid wringing; press the water out by rolling the bag in a towel instead.

Resizing is simple because the bag is a grid of identical squares, and one square equals 3 inches. Add a column of squares to the front and back (5 wide instead of 4) plus a matching square on the base strip for a roomy weekender, or add a fourth row to the front, back and side panels for a taller project bag.