Mustard Yellow Daisy Tote Free Crochet Pattern

This mustard yellow tote is sunshine you can carry! It has a structured bucket shape that stands up on its own, and four oversized daisy granny squares sewn onto the outside — two on the front, two on the back — with sculptural puff stitch centres and long, petal-like stitches.

We build the bag body first: a flat circular base that grows to 88 stitches, then straight cylindrical walls. The daisy squares are made separately with a smaller hook, blocked flat, and sewn on at the end. A folded tube handle, a tassel charm with wooden beads and a tiny crochet flower, and a simple fabric lining finish the whole thing beautifully.

It is rated intermediate, and the time estimate is 18 to 24 hours including the lining. Cotton yarn is important here — its natural stiffness is what gives the bag its lovely structured shape. Let us make it together!

Materials

• Main Color (MC): approximately 650 yards worsted weight cotton or cotton blend yarn in mustard yellow
• Contrast Color (CC): approximately 200 yards in cream or off-white, same yarn weight
• US G-6 (4.00 mm) crochet hook, for the daisy squares
• US H-8 (5.00 mm) crochet hook, for the bag body and handle
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers (at least 4)
• Fabric for lining: 1/2 yard of cotton canvas or quilting cotton in natural or cream
• Sewing needle and thread to match the lining
• 4 to 6 wooden beads with holes large enough for yarn, approximately 1/2 inch diameter
• Scissors
• Pins
• Iron and pressing cloth, for blocking

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• MR: magic ring
• BLO: back loop only
• inc: increase, work 2 sc into the same stitch
• pm: place marker
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rep: repeat
• sk: skip
• sp: space
• ch-sp: chain space

Special Stitches

• Puff Stitch (ps): Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop to about 1/2 inch height. Without completing the stitch, insert hook into the same stitch again, yarn over and pull up another loop to the same height. Repeat one more time — you now have 7 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops at once. Chain 1 to close and secure the puff. This creates the textured centre of each daisy.
• Elongated Single Crochet Petal (escp): Insert your hook into the foundation ring or designated space, yarn over, and pull up a loop to about 3/4 inch to 1 inch height. Do not let it collapse to normal sc height. Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. The elongated draw-up makes the petals stand up like actual flower petals.
• Standing Single Crochet (ssc): A way to join new yarn without a slip stitch. Start with a slip knot on your hook, insert hook into the designated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. This gives you a cleaner colour join.
• Invisible Join: Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Thread onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle under both loops of the first stitch of the round from front to back, then back down through the centre of the last stitch made. Pull gently to match the tension of the surrounding stitches.

Gauge & Size

• Gauge: bag body with H-8 hook in single crochet, 16 sc x 18 rounds = 4 inches square; daisy square with G-6 hook, blocked, one completed square = 5.5 inches square
• Finished size: approximately 12 inches wide by 11 inches tall, not including the handle; base diameter around 9 inches
• Construction: circular base and cylindrical body worked in rounds; four daisy squares made separately, blocked, and sewn on; fabric lining sewn in
• Skill level: Intermediate

A few pattern notes: the bag body is worked in continuous rounds with no joining — use a stitch marker in the first stitch and move it up as you go. When changing colours, work the last yarn over of the final stitch in the old colour with the new colour for a clean transition. Stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of each round, and all rounds are worked with the right side facing unless noted.

Bag Base and Body Pattern

The base is a flat circle worked in joined rounds with turning chains, which creates a firm, flat bottom. With MC and the H-8 hook, make a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st), work 8 sc into the magic ring, sl st to first sc to join, pull ring closed. (8 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, turn. Working into the WS, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (16 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around, sl st to first sc to join. (24 sc)

Round 4: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (32 sc)

Round 5: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (40 sc)

Round 6: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (48 sc)

Round 7: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (56 sc)

Round 8: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (64 sc)

Round 9: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (72 sc)

Round 10: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (80 sc)

Round 11: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (88 sc)

Do not fasten off. Your base should measure approximately 9 inches across when lightly blocked — if it cups upward, your tension is too tight, and if it ruffles, too loose. Now we build the walls straight up. At the end of Round 11, do NOT turn.

Round 12 (Transition Round): Ch 1, do not turn. Working in BLO of each stitch around, sc in each st around. Do not join. Place a marker in the first st. (88 sc)

Working in the back loop only creates a crisp fold line between the base and walls — this is what gives the bag its defined bucket silhouette.

Rounds 13 through 38: Sc in each st around, working through both loops. Move the marker up each round. (88 sc each round)

That is 26 rounds of plain single crochet, and the walls should measure approximately 9.5 inches tall from the fold line. After Round 38, your bag body should be about 9.5 inches tall and approximately 12 inches wide when laid flat.

Round 39 (Handle Attachment Prep): Sc in next 22 sts, pm for the handle left attachment point, sc in next 44 sts, pm for the handle right attachment point, sc in next 22 sts. (88 sc)

Your two handle markers should sit directly opposite each other.

Rounds 40 and 41: Sc in each st around. (88 sc each round)

At the end of Round 41, sl st to the next st, fasten off, and weave in the ends.

Daisy Granny Square Pattern

Make 4 squares. These are the showstoppers — each one has a puff stitch centre, elongated petal clusters, and a granny square border that converts the round daisy into a square shape. Use the G-6 hook.

Round 1 (Daisy Center): With MC, make a magic ring. Ch 2 (does not count as st), work 10 hdc into the ring, sl st to first hdc to join, pull ring closed. (10 hdc)

Round 2: Ch 1, (ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st) 5 times, sl st to top of first ps to join. (5 ps, 5 ch-1 sps)

Fasten off MC. The centre medallion should measure approximately 1 inch across. Now the petals: join CC into the centre ring opening.

Round 3 (Daisy Petals): For each of the 5 ch-1 spaces between puffs, work the following petal cluster: insert hook into the centre ring, work 1 escp. Repeat twice more so you have 3 elongated sc going into the centre ring for that petal cluster. Sl st into the next ch-1 space. Rep for all 5 petal clusters around. Sl st to base of first escp to join. (15 escp total, 5 petal clusters of 3 each)

Fasten off CC. Rejoin CC with a standing sc at the tip of any petal cluster for the outer petal round.

Round 4 (Outer Petal Round): Work 1 sc in each of the 3 escp of the first petal cluster, ch 3 (forms petal tip arch), sc in top loop of centre escp of same cluster, ch 3. Rep for each of the 5 petal clusters around. Sl st to first sc to join. (5 petal arches, 15 sc, 10 ch-3 sps)

Fasten off CC. Now the granny square border that turns the round daisy into a square. Join MC with a standing sc in any ch-3 petal arch space.

Round 5: (Sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) into each of the 5 petal arch ch-3 spaces around. Sl st to first sc. (5 petal shells, 35 sts)

Round 6: Ch 3, treat the motif as a square with 4 corners. At each corner petal shell, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the top centre dc. Along each edge between corners, work dc across all intervening sts and ch-sps. Adjust to have approximately 7 dc per side between corner ch-2 sps. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (4 corner ch-2 sps, approximately 7 dc per side)

Round 7: Sl st to corner ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same corner sp, dc in each dc across to next corner ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp. Rep around all 4 corners. Sl st to top of ch-3 to join. (4 corners, 11 dc per side between corners)

Round 8: Sl st to corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp, sc in each dc across to next corner. Rep around all 4 sides. Sl st to first sc to join. (4 corners with ch-2 sps, 13 sc per side)

Fasten off MC, weave in ends, and block the square to 5.5 inches square using pins and a damp cloth. Make all 4 squares before moving on.

Handle Pattern

With MC and the H-8 hook, chain 81.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (80 sc)

Rows 2 through 6: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (80 sc each row)

At the end of Row 6, do not fasten off. Fold the strip in half lengthwise so the long edges meet. Working through both layers, sl st the long open edge together to form a tube. Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch tail. The handle should be approximately 20 inches long, giving a loop height of about 5 inches above the bag opening.

To attach it, locate your handle markers from Round 39. Pin one end of the handle to each marker location, with about 1 inch of overlap on the inside of the bag. Using the tail and a tapestry needle, whipstitch each handle end securely to the inside top of the bag wall, passing through at least 3 times in each direction for strength. Weave in the ends.

Tassel Charm and Flower Pattern

For the tassel charm, cut 20 strands of MC and 10 strands of CC, each 10 inches long, plus one strand of MC approximately 18 inches long for the cord. Fold the cord strand in half, add 3 wooden beads onto the folded cord, and tie an overhand knot below the beads. Braid or twist the two cord strands together above the beads for approximately 3 inches. Gather all the cut strands into a bundle and fold the bundle in half. Loop the folded end through the cord loop and pull the cut ends through (a lark’s head knot). Wrap a separate strand of MC tightly around the bundle about 3/4 inch below the fold, knot and trim, and trim the tassel skirt to approximately 3 inches.

For the decorative flower, use MC and the G-6 hook.

Round 1: MR, ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring, sl st to first sc to join. (6 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (12 sc)

Round 3: (Ch 3, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) 6 times around. (6 ch-3 petal loops)

Round 4: (Sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) into each ch-3 petal loop around. Sl st to first sc to join. (6 petals)

Fasten off with a 12-inch tail. Sew the flower to the top of the tassel cord above the beads, and attach the assembled charm to the handle at the right-side attachment point by looping and tying securely.

Finishing & Assembly

Block all 4 squares to 5.5 inches square. Lay the bag flat. On the front face, pin 2 squares side by side with their top edges sitting 1 inch below the bag opening and bottom edges approximately 3 inches above the base fold, centred horizontally with about 0.5 inches from the side folds. Repeat on the back face with the remaining 2 squares. Using MC and a tapestry needle, whipstitch each square around all 4 edges, catching both the square border and the bag body stitches — and where two squares meet at the centre seam, whipstitch them to each other as well.

For the fabric lining, cut two fabric rectangles 13.5 inches wide by 12 inches tall, and one fabric circle 9.5 inches in diameter. With right sides together, sew the rectangles along both short edges with a 0.5-inch seam allowance and press the seams open. Pin the circle to the bottom of the tube, right sides together, clipping the circle edge every 1/2 inch to ease the curve, and sew with a 0.5-inch seam allowance. Trim and press. Fold the top edge down 1 inch to the wrong side and press. Insert the lining into the bag with the wrong side facing the inside wall, align the seams with the bag’s side folds, with the folded top edge sitting about 1/2 inch below the bag opening, and slip stitch the lining to the inside top of the bag body all the way around.

Finally, weave in all ends through at least 4 stitches in alternating directions, and block the finished bag by lightly dampening it and shaping it over a rounded form like a bowl or crumpled towel. Pat the daisy squares flat and let it dry completely.

Tips and Care

To make the tote wider, add repeats of 8 sc to the base (one more increase round) — every 8 stitches adds about 0.75 inches to the width, and you will want to scale your daisy squares accordingly. To make it taller, add more plain sc rounds between Rounds 12 and 38; every 4 rounds adds approximately 1 inch of height.

For care, machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool water inside a mesh bag, and lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, and remove the wooden beads before washing — or hand wash only.