Dusty Rose Peplum Baby Outfit Free Crochet Pattern

I love a baby set that looks like it came from a little boutique, and this dusty rose outfit is exactly that! We will make a sweet peplum tank top with wide straps and a square neckline, plus matching bloomers with a stretchy ribbed waistband, and the scalloped edges make the whole set feel so special.

The top is worked in flat bodice panels first, then we join the panels and pick up stitches around the bottom to flare out into the peplum. The bloomers start with the ribbed waistband, flow into an easy body worked in the round, and finish with the same pretty scallop trim at the legs.

It is sized for babies 6 to 12 months, and I will walk you through every section one step at a time. Take it slowly, enjoy the half double crochet rhythm, and you will have a gorgeous handmade gift before you know it!

Materials

• Approximately 300 to 350 yards of DK weight (CYCA 3) cotton or cotton-blend yarn in dusty rose
• US E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• 2 pearl-style shank buttons or beads, approximately 8 mm, for the bloomers drawstring
• 1 pearl-style shank button, approximately 10 mm, for the flower centre
• Stitch markers, 4 to 6

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st/sts: stitch / stitches

Special Stitches

Scallop Stitch: Slip stitch into the first stitch, chain 3, work 2 double crochet into the same stitch (this makes a 3-dc shell), skip 1 stitch, slip stitch into the next stitch. Each scallop uses 3 stitches total, and we repeat this edging around the peplum hem and the bloomer legs.

Gauge & Size

• Finished size: top and bloomers set for 6 to 12 months; top chest approximately 17 inches, top length approximately 10 inches, peplum depth approximately 3 inches; bloomers waist approximately 14 inches unstretched (stretches to 18 inches), bloomers length approximately 7 inches, leg opening approximately 10 inches
• Gauge: 18 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches, worked flat with a 3.5 mm hook, after blocking
• Construction: bodice panels worked flat and seamed, peplum worked in the round, bloomers worked from a ribbed waistband into a body in the round
• Skill level: Intermediate

Bodice Panels

Make 2 identical panels, one for the front and one for the back. Chain 40 to begin each panel.

Row 1 (WS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (turning chain counts as 1 hdc), hdc in each ch across, turn. (39 hdc)

Rows 2 through 12: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each st across, turn. (39 hdc)

Your bodice piece should now measure approximately 4 inches tall. Next we shape the first strap, leaving the centre stitches unworked for the neckline.

Row 13 (right strap): Ch 2, hdc in next 12 sts, turn, leaving the remaining stitches unworked. (13 hdc)

Rows 14 through 20: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn. (13 hdc)

Fasten off this strap section. Return to Row 12, count 13 stitches in from the left edge, and rejoin your yarn there for the second strap.

Row 13 (left strap): Ch 2, hdc in next 12 sts, turn. (13 hdc)

Rows 14 through 20: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn. (13 hdc)

Fasten off. The centre gap of 13 stitches forms the neckline, and each strap is 13 stitches wide. Each finished panel should measure approximately 7 inches tall and 8.5 inches wide.

Assembling the Bodice

Place both panels with right sides together and seam the side edges with a yarn needle using whipstitch or mattress stitch, leaving the top 3 inches of each side open for the armholes.

Align the shoulder straps and seam the top edges together, 13 stitches to 13 stitches on each strap. Turn the bodice right side out, and you will see your square neckline, two wide straps, and the open lower edge ready for the peplum.

Peplum

Join yarn to any stitch at the lower edge of the assembled bodice.

Setup Round: Ch 2, work 1 hdc into each stitch around the entire lower edge, join with sl st to top of ch-2. (78 hdc)

Round 1: Ch 2, working in FLO only, work 2 hdc into each stitch around, join with sl st. (156 hdc)

Working in the front loops only creates that natural fold line where the bodice meets the peplum, and it is what gives the skirt its lovely flared drape.

Rounds 2 through 7: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with sl st. (156 hdc)

Edging Round: Sl st into first st, (ch 3, 2 dc into same st, sk 1 st, sl st into next st) 52 times, working the last sl st into the beginning sl st. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Neckline Round: With right side facing, join yarn to the neckline edge, ch 1, work sc evenly around the entire neckline opening, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Armhole Edge (work each armhole separately): Join yarn at the underarm seam, ch 1, sc evenly around the armhole opening, join with sl st. Fasten off.

Crocheted Flower

Round 1: Magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc into each sc around, join with sl st. (12 sc)

Round 3: (Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in next st) 6 times. (6 petals formed)

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing, and attach the 10 mm pearl button to the centre. Sew the flower to the upper left front bodice, about 1 inch below the left shoulder strap and 1 inch in from the neckline edge.

Bloomers Waistband

Chain 11 to begin. All waistband rows are worked in back loops only, which gives us that stretchy ribbed texture.

Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (turning chain counts as hdc), hdc in each ch across, turn. (10 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in BLO across, turn. (10 hdc)

Continue in BLO ribbing in the same way until the strip measures 14 inches long, approximately 42 rows. Do not fasten off.

Join the short ends by holding them with right sides together and working slip stitches through both layers. Your waistband ring should measure 14 inches in circumference unstretched and approximately 1.75 inches high.

Bloomers Body

With right side facing, join yarn to the lower long edge of the waistband ring and work 1 sc into each row end around. (42 sc) Join with sl st.

Body Round 1: Ch 2, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) 21 times, join with sl st. (63 hdc)

Body Rounds 2 through 10: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with sl st. (63 hdc)

Now we divide for the legs. Mark stitch 1 and stitch 32 to split your 63 stitches into two sections.

Front Leg Rows 1 through 3: Working on stitches 1 through 32, ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn. (32 hdc)

Fasten off, rejoin yarn to stitch 33, and work the back leg section.

Back Leg Rows 1 through 3: Ch 2, hdc in each of the 31 sts across, turn. (31 hdc)

Fasten off. Fold the bloomers so the front and back align at the crotch with right sides together, and seam the crotch and inner leg edges using mattress stitch.

Leg Edging & Drawstring

Work each leg separately. Join yarn at the inseam of one leg opening.

Setup Round: Ch 1, work sc evenly around the leg opening to create approximately 30 sc, join with sl st. (30 sc)

Scallop Round: Sl st into first st, (ch 3, 2 dc into same st, sk 1 st, sl st into next st) 10 times, join with sl st. Fasten off.

Repeat for the second leg. For the drawstring, cut yarn approximately 36 inches long and weave it through the stitches at the top of the bloomer body, in and out every 2 stitches, bringing both ends out at the front centre.

Thread one 8 mm pearl bead onto each end and tie an overhand knot below each bead. Make small tassels by folding 3-inch yarn lengths in half and tying them at each drawstring end below the beads, then trim to approximately 1 inch.

Finishing & Assembly

Weave in all yarn ends. Wet block both pieces by soaking in cool water for 10 minutes, gently squeezing out the excess water without wringing, and laying flat to dry. Shape the peplum and scallop edges while damp so they dry crisp and defined.

For a smaller 0 to 3 months size, reduce the bodice foundation chain to 34 stitches (33 working hdc), reduce the waistband to 12 inches (approximately 36 rows), and work only 8 body rounds before the crotch division. For 12 to 18 months, increase the foundation chain to 46 stitches (45 working hdc), increase the waistband to 16 inches (approximately 48 rows), and add 2 to 3 extra body rounds. Always keep your scallop repeats divisible by 3.

Tips

Gauge matters so much for baby garments, so make your swatch, block it, and measure it before you begin. Even one stitch per inch off will change the fit.

Cotton or cotton-blend yarn gives you the crisp stitch definition this set deserves and holds the scallop edging beautifully after blocking. Avoid fuzzy yarns, as they will hide your stitch work.

For care, machine wash on delicate in cold water inside a mesh laundry bag, lay flat to dry, and store folded to preserve the ribbed waistband shape.