Sky Blue Forget-Me-Not Dress Crochet Pattern

I have a serious weakness for dresses that look like they took forever to make but actually come together in logical, manageable stages — and this Sky Blue Forget-Me-Not Dress is exactly that kind of project! A fitted bodice, dreamy flutter sleeves, and a three-tier lace skirt scattered with tiny flower appliques: it looks like something from a garden party in a period drama.

We will build it top-down, starting at the neckline and working our way down, which means you can try the dress on as you go and adjust for a custom fit. The bodice uses raglan-style shaping worked in joined rounds, and the skirt tiers attach directly at the waist, expanding through shell lace repeats.

The pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL in US crochet terminology, with 2 to 5 cm (about 0.75 to 2 inches) of negative ease in the bodice, so it fits close to the body without distorting the stitches. Let me walk you through everything, stage by stage.

Materials

• Main yarn: DK weight or light worsted (#3) smooth cotton or cotton-bamboo blend, 115–130 metres per 50 grams, in sky blue — approximately 900–1000 g (XS), 1000–1100 g (S), 1100–1200 g (M), 1200–1350 g (L), 1350–1500 g (XL), 1500–1650 g (2XL), 1650–1850 g (3XL)
• Contrast yarn: small amounts of pale blue, white, golden yellow, and optional soft green for the forget-me-not flowers and leaves
• 4.0 mm main crochet hook, or whatever size you need to achieve gauge
• 3.0–3.5 mm motif hook for firm, crisp flowers and leaves
• 8 stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Tape measure
• Blocking pins
• Optional: thin elastic for waist support, and optional lightweight lining fabric

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• st(s): stitch(es)
• sp: space
• sk: skip
• rep: repeat
• RS / WS: right side / wrong side
• inc: increase
• pm: place marker
• dc2tog: double crochet two together

Special Stitches

• V-st (V-stitch): work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same stitch or space. This creates a small V-shaped cluster with a chain space in the middle, and it is the raglan corner stitch for the yoke.
• 5-dc shell: work 5 dc all in the same stitch or chain space. This fan-like shell is the foundation of the lace pattern.
• Picot: chain 3, then slip stitch in the first chain. This makes a tiny decorative bump along edges.
• Linked waist round: work hdc through the back loop only for a flatter, firmer band that helps define the waist.
• Gather increase: work 2 dc in one stitch at evenly distributed points. Avoid stacking increases directly above each other to keep the fabric smooth.

Gauge & Size

• Finished size: XS to 3XL. Finished bust 74 cm (XS), 82 cm (S), 90 cm (M), 98 cm (L), 106 cm (XL), 116 cm (2XL), 126 cm (3XL); dress length from top shoulder to lower scalloped hem 89 cm (XS) to 100 cm (3XL), easy to customize by adding or removing rows in the skirt tiers
• Gauge: blocked, in double crochet 18 dc x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches); in shell lace, 4 shell repeats x 8 rows = approximately 10 x 10 cm. Always wash and block your swatch before deciding which size to make — cotton yarn especially can behave differently after its first bath
• Construction: top-down raglan yoke in joined rounds, fitted bodice to the waist, three shell-lace skirt tiers joined behind each other, flutter sleeves worked around the armholes, and sewn-on flower appliques
• Skill level: Intermediate
• Fit note: the bodice should fit close to your body but should not distort the stitches. If your measurements fall between sizes, use the larger neckline and yoke size, then reduce at the side seams or waist. For a looser, relaxed fit, work one size larger and skip the waist elastic

Bodice Yoke Pattern

The yoke begins at the neckline and is worked in joined rounds. Four raglan markers divide the front, back and both sleeves, and each raglan corner uses a V-stitch that creates the shaping. Foundation chain by size: XS 88 (front 28, sleeve 16, back 28, sleeve 16); S 96 (30, 18, 30, 18); M 104 (32, 20, 32, 20); L 112 (34, 22, 34, 22); XL 120 (36, 24, 36, 24); 2XL 128 (38, 26, 38, 26); 3XL 136 (40, 28, 40, 28).

Step 1: With the main sky-blue yarn and 4.0 mm hook, chain the foundation number for your size. Join with a slip stitch, taking care not to twist.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around; join.

Step 2: Lay the neckline flat. Starting at centre back, count stitches according to the division table above, and place a marker at each of the four division points. The marked stitch becomes the corner stitch.

Step 3 (Round 2 setup): Ch 3, dc in each st to the first marker; in the marked st work a V-st, remove the marker and place the marker in the ch-1 space. Continue in dc, working a V-st at each marked corner. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.

Step 4 (Rounds 3 onward): Ch 3, dc in each dc. In every marked ch-1 corner space work (dc, ch 1, dc), replacing the marker in the new ch-1 space. Join each round.

Step 5: Continue yoke rounds until the measured raglan depth from neckline to underarm is approximately: XS 17 cm, S 18 cm, M 19 cm, L 20.5 cm, XL 22 cm, 2XL 23.5 cm, 3XL 25 cm. Try the dress on as you go if possible — this is the beauty of top-down construction.

Step 6: If your bust needs more room before the raglan reaches the target depth, add 1–2 plain increase rounds. If it reaches the depth early, stop increasing and work one round even, placing 1 dc in each corner ch-1 space.

Separating Body & Sleeves

Step 1: Work in dc to the first raglan corner. Work 1 dc in the corner ch-1 space.

Step 2: Chain underarm stitches according to your size: XS 6, S 8, M 8, L 10, XL 12, 2XL 14, 3XL 16. Skip all sleeve stitches to the next raglan corner and work 1 dc in that corner space.

Step 3: Work across the back to the next corner; repeat the underarm chain and sleeve skip. Complete the front and join.

Step 4: Next round: work 1 dc in each dc and each underarm ch. Mark the centre of each underarm — these become the side shaping points.

Fitted Bodice Pattern

Work the body in joined rounds, using the side markers to keep the shaping symmetrical. The standard bodice depth from underarm to waist is 18–22 cm depending on your torso length. Approximate body stitch counts after separation, and target waist counts: XS 132–140 sts, target waist 116–120; S 144–152, target 128–132; M 156–164, target 140–144; L 172–180, target 156–160; XL 188–196, target 174–178; 2XL 204–214, target 192–196; 3XL 222–232, target 210–216.

Step 1 (Rounds 1–2): Dc evenly around with no shaping.

Step 2 (Decrease round): At each side marker, work dc2tog centred over the marker twice — one decrease just before the side marker and one just after it. This removes 4 stitches total per decrease round.

Step 3: Work 1–2 even rounds between decrease rounds. Repeat until you are near the target waist count in the table, or until the bodice follows your torso without pulling.

Step 4: Continue even until the lower edge reaches your natural waist. For a longer torso, add rounds here rather than changing the skirt.

Step 5 (Waist band) Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in each st; join.

Waist Band Rounds 2–4: Ch 1, hdc in back loop only around; join. On the final round, work 1 sc in each st. Do not fasten off.

Optional hidden waist elastic: for extra support, cut 6–10 mm elastic to comfortably circle your waist with a 2 cm overlap. Place it against the inside of the waist band and sew it with stretch stitches, or crochet the final waist-band round around the elastic without piercing it. Make sure the fabric can still stretch over your hips if the dress has no zipper.

Skirt Tier 1 Pattern

The skirt is worked directly from the waist downward. Each tier uses shell lace and ends in a scallop, and the next tier joins behind the previous one so the flounces overlap cleanly.

Step 1 (Increase round): Ch 3. Work dc around while increasing evenly to approximately 1.30 times your waist stitch count. Round the total to a multiple of 6. Join.

Step 2 (Lace setup): Ch 1, sc in first st, (ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st) repeat around. Adjust the last repeat by skipping 1 or 3 stitches if needed so the round closes smoothly.

Step 3 (Shell round): Sl st into first ch-3 space, ch 3, work 4 dc in same space, sc in next ch-3 space; (5 dc in next ch-3 space, sc in next space) repeat around.

Step 4 (Open round): Ch 5, sc in centre dc of next shell, (ch 5, sc in centre dc of next shell) repeat around.

Step 5: Repeat the Shell round and Open round 3 more times, or until Tier 1 measures 14–16 cm.

Step 6 (Edging): In each ch-5 space work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, picot, 3 dc, hdc, sc). Fasten off.

Skirt Tier 2 Pattern

Step 1: Turn the dress inside out. Join yarn to the first skirt increase round at the waist-side base of Tier 1, working into the unused back strand or underside of that round.

Step 2 (Foundation round): Work dc around while increasing evenly to 1.20 times the Tier 1 foundation count; round to a multiple of 6.

Step 3: Work the same lace setup, Shell round and Open round sequence as Tier 1.

Step 4: Continue for 18–20 cm, making one additional expansion round halfway through: in every third ch-5 space work ch 6 instead of ch 5. On the following shell round, maintain one shell per chain space.

Step 5: Finish with the same scalloped picot edging.

Skirt Tier 3 Pattern

Step 1: Join yarn behind Tier 2 at its foundation round, again using the underside strand so the join is hidden.

Step 2 (Foundation round): Increase evenly to 1.15 times the Tier 2 foundation count, rounded to a multiple of 6.

Step 3: Work the lace setup and alternating shell and open rounds for 22–26 cm, or to your preferred finished dress length.

Step 4: For extra sweep, on the final two open rounds use ch 6 instead of ch 5 every other repeat.

Step 5: Finish with the scalloped picot edging. Steam or wet block the three tiers so the scallops open and overlap evenly.

Flutter Sleeves Pattern

The sleeves are worked directly around each armhole. They are intentionally short and flared — if you prefer a cap sleeve, stop after Round 3 and work the edging.

Round 1: With RS facing, join yarn at centre underarm. Ch 3, dc evenly around the armhole, placing 1 dc into each yoke stitch and 1 dc in each underarm chain. Join.

Round 2: Ch 3, dc around, increasing 1 dc in every 6th stitch. Join.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, (ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st) repeat around.

Round 4: Sl st into first ch-3 space, ch 3, 4 dc in same space, sc in next ch-3 space; (5 dc in next space, sc in next space) repeat around.

Round 5: Ch 5, sc in centre dc of next shell; repeat around.

Round 6: Work 7 dc in each ch-5 space with sc between spaces for a fuller flutter.

Edging: (Sc in next dc, picot, sc in next dc) repeat selectively across each shell so the picots are spaced rather than crowded. Fasten off. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Forget-Me-Not Flowers & Leaves

Make 13–21 flowers depending on your size and desired density. For the classic look, use pale blue petals with golden yellow centres, and make some white flowers with blue edging for variation. Use the motif hook (3.0–3.5 mm).

Flower Step 1: With yellow yarn, make a magic ring. Work 5 sc into the ring; join. Fasten off the yellow.

Flower Step 2: Join pale blue yarn in any sc. (Ch 2, work 2 dc in same sc, ch 2, sl st in same sc) repeat in each of the 5 sc. You now have 5 rounded petals.

Flower Step 3 (optional definition): With a slightly deeper blue, surface slip stitch loosely around the outer edge of each petal. Do not pull tight.

Flower Step 4: Leave a 20 cm tail for sewing.

Leaf: With soft green, ch 7. Starting in the second ch from hook work: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, 3 sc in last ch. Working down the opposite side of the chain: hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. Fasten off with a sewing tail. Make 8–14 leaves.

For placement: arrange a primary garland of 7–11 flowers diagonally from the left shoulder toward the right waist (or mirror the direction if you prefer), nestling 1–2 leaves between every second or third flower and keeping the motifs slightly irregular so the line looks botanical rather than geometric. On the middle skirt, place 3–5 small flower clusters across the front only, spaced at least 8–12 cm apart. Sew with matching sewing thread or the yarn tails, stitching through the flower centre and lightly tacking two petal edges — do not stitch every edge flat, because a little lift looks more dimensional.

Finishing & Assembly

For the neckline: join the main yarn at centre back neckline and work 1 round of sc evenly around, easing over any slightly loose chain stitches. Next round: (sc in next 3 sts, picot) repeat around. If the neckline feels too open, replace every 6th group of 3 sc with sc2tog to draw it in slightly.

Weave in all ends securely on the wrong side — use duplicate-stitch weaving across at least 4–5 cm for slick cotton yarns.

Wash the dress gently in cool water with mild soap, roll it in a towel, and lay it flat. Pin the hem scallops and flutter sleeves into shape, and do not overstretch the fitted bodice. After blocking is fully dry, sew on the flowers and leaves if you prefer the motifs to remain crisp and undistorted.

Before you call it finished, check: the yoke lies flat with no rippling at the raglan corners; the underarms are comfortable and gap-free; the bodice waist sits at your natural waistline; all three skirt tiers overlap without exposing their join rounds; the sleeve scallops match in length and fullness; the flowers are secure but keep a slight dimensional lift; and the dress is fully blocked before your final fit assessment.

Because the skirt lace is open, a simple lining or slip is recommended — a lightweight stretch lining is easiest to wear. Cut or buy a sleeveless slip that ends 2–5 cm above the crochet hem, and attach it only at the neckline and waist using loose hand stitches so the crochet can still stretch. Do not stitch the lining into the skirt tiers.

Tips

For fit adjustments: add or remove yoke rounds before sleeve separation to change the bust (each increase round adds fabric to the front, back and sleeves); change the number or frequency of the side decrease rounds for the waist, keeping the decreases balanced at both sides; and add or remove even body rounds before the waist band for torso length.

For skirt fullness, change the first skirt increase factor from 1.30 to 1.20 for less fullness or up to 1.40 for more sweep. For sleeve fullness, increase every 5th stitch in Round 2 for more flare, or every 8th stitch for less.

For care: hand wash, or machine wash on a delicate cycle in cool water inside a mesh bag, following the yarn label. Reshape flat to dry, and avoid hanging the wet dress, as the skirt can lengthen under its own weight. Store it folded, and if the flowers flatten over time, reshape them with your fingers while damp and let them dry flat.