Champagne Dahlia Bridal Shawl Crochet Pattern

This is hands down one of the most stunning bridal accessories I have ever seen come off a crochet hook! We are talking pineapple lace, dimensional flower petals, pearl bead drops, and a silhouette that drapes like absolute perfection across the shoulders.

The Champagne Dahlia Bridal Shawl looks impossibly intricate, but it breaks down into manageable sections that build on each other logically. We will work the body from the neckline down, add some gorgeous short rows for shaping, finish with a corded scallop edge, then create the dahlia and leaves separately before stitching everything together.

Whether you are making this for your own wedding, gifting it to a bride-to-be, or creating a show-stopping piece for a formal event, this pattern delivers serious wow factor. Let me walk you through every step!

Materials

• 900 to 1200 yards (825 to 1100 m) of champagne lace-weight cotton, bamboo-cotton, or mercerized crochet thread with subtle sheen for the main color
• 100 yards (90 m) of ivory or pale champagne contrast yarn for selected dahlia petals (optional but recommended)
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for the body
• 1.75 to 2.0 mm crochet hook for firmer flower petals (optional)
• 24 to 32 teardrop pearl beads, 8 to 12 mm, drilled through the top
• Cream seed beads, size 6/0 or 8/0
• Fine beading needle
• Matching strong sewing thread
• Tapestry needle
• Rustproof pins and blocking mats
• Tape measure
• Optional: 1 small sew-in snap or hook-and-eye for extra security beneath the flower

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• dtr: double treble crochet
• sp: space
• sk: skip
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rep: repeat
• RS / WS: right side / wrong side
• picot: ch 3, sl st in first ch
• V-st: (dc, ch 2, dc) in same sp

Special Stitches

• Corded scallop: work 5 dc in designated space, remove hook from loop, insert hook front-to-back through top of first dc, catch dropped loop and pull through. Ch 1 tightly. This gathers the shell into a rounded corded ridge, like a popcorn stitch worked in a shell formation.
• Pineapple decrease: at the top of a pineapple, replace two adjacent ch-5 loops with one ch-3 loop, then on the next row work sc in that ch-3 loop. This pulls the pineapple to a point and creates that classic tapered pineapple shape.

Gauge & Size

• Finished size: span approximately 50 to 54 inches (127 to 137 cm) from cuff edge to cuff edge; center back depth 17 to 19 inches (43 to 48 cm); side depth 13 to 15 inches (33 to 38 cm); center-front points naturally shorter than the sides; dahlia diameter approximately 5.5 to 6.5 inches (14 to 16.5 cm)
• Gauge: one blocked 12-stitch pineapple repeat across Body Rows 9 through 16 = approximately 3.1 to 3.4 inches (8 to 8.5 cm) wide; eight rows of lace = approximately 3.0 to 3.25 inches (7.5 to 8.25 cm) deep
• Construction: top-down capelet worked flat in rows from the neckline, short-row shaping for the sides and back, corded scallop edging, dimensional dahlia and leaves made separately and sewn on
• Skill level: Intermediate to Advanced

Shawl Body Pattern

The written rows below use 168 foundation chains + 6 turning chains = 14 pineapple repeat sections. If you changed size, simply work the repeat more or fewer times.

Foundation: Ch 174 loosely. (Dc in 7th ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch) across. You should have 56 dc posts including the first turning-chain post. Turn.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in same st, (ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next dc) rep across, ending with 2 tr in last st. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next tr, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, V-st in next ch-2 sp) rep across. End with dc in each of last 2 sts. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, 7 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, V-st in next V-st ch-2 sp) rep across. End dc in last 2 sts. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1) 6 times, dc in 7th dc, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, V-st in next V-st) rep across. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 4, sc in first ch-1 sp over pineapple, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 4, V-st in next V-st) rep across. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, ch 5, V-st in next V-st) rep across. Turn.

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, V-st in next V-st) rep across. Turn.

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 5, sc in center ch-3 sp, ch 5, V-st in next V-st) rep across. Turn. The first pineapple tier is complete.

Expansion Band

This section opens up each original pineapple section into two descending lace lanes. This controlled expansion gives the capelet its sweeping curved outline without creating a gathered ruffle at the neck.

Row 9: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 3, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, V-st in next V-st, ch 3, 5 dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3) rep across, keeping edge dc groups. Turn.

Row 10: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 3, (dc in next dc, ch 1) 4 times, dc in 5th dc, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next V-st ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc in next dc, ch 1) 4 times, dc in 5th dc, ch 3) rep across. Turn.

Row 11: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 4, sc in each of the 4 ch-1 sps with ch 3 between them, ch 4, V-st in each of the two ch-2 sps in center cluster, ch 4, sc in each of next 4 ch-1 sps with ch 3 between, ch 4) rep across. Turn.

Row 12: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, V-st in next V-st, ch 2, V-st in next V-st, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5) rep across. Turn.

Large Pineapple-Lace Fan Tier

Work the following 8-row repeat across every V-st pair created in the Expansion Band. The two outer edges are kept slightly shallower so the center-front corners finish shorter than the side and back sections.

Row 13: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, 9 dc in first V-st ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-2 bridge between V-sts, ch 3, 9 dc in second V-st ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 3) rep across. Turn.

Row 14: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 3, (dc in next dc, ch 1) 8 times, dc in 9th dc, ch 3, sc in center bridge sc, ch 3, (dc in next dc, ch 1) 8 times, dc in 9th dc, ch 3) rep across. Turn.

Row 15: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 4, sc in first ch-1 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 7 times, ch 4, sc in center ch-3 sp, ch 4, sc in first ch-1 sp of second fan, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 7 times, ch 4) rep across. Turn.

Row 16: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 5 times, ch 5, sc in center ch-4 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 5 times, ch 5) rep across. Turn.

Row 17: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, ch 5, sc in center ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 3 times, ch 5) rep across. Turn.

Row 18: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc in center ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5) rep across. Turn.

Row 19: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 6, sc in center ch-3 sp of first pineapple, ch 6, sc in center ch-5 sp, ch 6, sc in center ch-3 sp of second pineapple, ch 6) rep across. Turn.

Row 20: Ch 3, dc in next dc, (ch 5, sc in first ch-6 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 5) rep across. Turn.

Lengthening the Sides and Back

To create elbow-length sides while keeping the center-front shorter, use short rows before the final edging. Divide the capelet into 5 zones by repeat count: Front Edge A = first 2 repeats; Left Side = next 3 repeats; Back = center 4 repeats; Right Side = next 3 repeats; Front Edge B = last 2 repeats.

Step 1: Attach yarn at the beginning of the Left Side zone. Work Rows 17 to 20 pattern logic across Left Side + Back + Right Side only. Turn.

Step 2: Work back across Right Side + Back + Left Side. Turn.

Step 3: Repeat these two short rows once more if more elbow coverage is desired. Fasten off.

Step 4: Reattach at the beginning of Back zone and work 2 additional short rows across Back only. Fasten off.

Step 5: Lightly steam or wet-block at this stage. The sides should now fall lower than the two front corners.

Fit check: drape the unedged shawl over a dress form or over your shoulders. The top edge should lie smoothly, the side points should reach near the elbows, and the two front ends should sit 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) higher than the side points. Add or remove one short-row pair before edging if needed.

Corded Scalloped Lower Edge

Edging Row 1 (RS): Join yarn at right front corner. Work sc evenly along the entire lower edge, placing 3 sc in each major point and approximately 2 sc per row-end along short-row transitions. Keep the edge flat, not gathered. Turn.

Edging Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc) across. Adjust at the last repeat so both corners match. Turn.

Edging Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sp, (corded scallop in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp) across. If necessary, use a plain 5-dc shell at one transition space so spacing remains even. Do not force the edge. Fasten off.

Front/Neck finishing: Join at one lower front corner. Work 1 row sc evenly up the front edge, around the neckline and down the opposite front edge. Work a second row of reverse sc (also called crab stitch) or closely spaced sl st for a neat corded edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Oversized Dahlia Flower

The flower is built on a firm crocheted disk so it can be sewn securely to the shawl without flattening the petals. Finished diameter is approximately 5.5 to 6.5 inches (14 to 16.5 cm).

Flower Base Disk Round 1: With champagne, make a magic ring. Ch 2, 12 hdc in ring; join with sl st. (12 sts)

Flower Base Disk Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each st around; join. (24 sts)

Flower Base Disk Round 3: Ch 2, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) around; join. (36 sts)

Flower Base Disk Round 4: Ch 2, (hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) around; join. (48 sts) Fasten off.

Outer Folded Petals (make 16): With ivory or pale champagne and 1.75 to 2.0 mm hook: Ch 18. Beginning in 2nd ch from hook work sl st, sc, hdc, dc in next 5 ch, tr in next 5 ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc, sc. Working along opposite side of foundation chain: sc, hdc, dc in next 3 ch, tr in next 5 ch, dc in next 5 ch, hdc, sc, sl st at tip. Fasten off leaving a 6 inch (15 cm) tail. Fold the petal lengthwise with RS outward and take 2 to 3 tiny stitches through the lower 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) to form a pointed cupped petal.

Middle Folded Petals (make 12): Ch 14. Beginning in 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc in next 4 ch, tr in next 4 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc. Work back along opposite side with mirror sequence. Fasten off. Fold and tack at base as for outer petals.

Inner Pointed Petals (make 10): Ch 10. Beginning in 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc in next 3 ch, tr in next 2 ch, dc. Mirror along opposite side. Fold and tack. For the tightest center petals, wrap the lower third around the hook shaft before securing the base.

Dahlia Assembly

Step 1: Place the 48-stitch base disk RS up. Mark 16 equally spaced points around the outer round.

Step 2: Sew one outer petal at each mark, angling petals slightly outward. Stitch only through the petal base so the upper half remains free.

Step 3: Add the 12 middle petals in a second ring, offset between outer petals and raised at a steeper angle.

Step 4: Add the 10 inner petals in a third ring, alternating champagne and ivory if desired. Crowd them slightly for a full dahlia center.

Step 5: For the center, make a small spiral: ch 22, work 2 sc in each chain, coil tightly and stitch into the center opening.

Step 6: Steam only from the back if needed. Do not press the petals.

Pineapple-Lace Leaves

Make 2 leaves: one 5.5 inch (14 cm) leaf and one 4.5 inch (11.5 cm) leaf. Work both in champagne.

Row 1: Ch 24 (long leaf) or ch 20 (short leaf). (Dc in 6th ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next ch) to last 2-3 chains. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 4, tr in same st, (ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, V-st in next dc) to tip. In tip st work (tr, ch 3, tr, ch 3, tr). Rotate to work down opposite side of foundation chain, mirroring the pattern. Turn at stem end.

Row 3: Work ch-5 loops into each V-st ch-2 sp. At the tip, work 7 dc into center ch-3 sp to begin a miniature pineapple. Mirror down second side.

Rows 4 to 7: Shape the tip pineapple exactly as Body Rows 4 to 8: separate dc with ch 1, then reduce chain loops from 5 to 3 to 1 until the pineapple closes to a point. Keep side edges in ch-3 or ch-4 mesh.

Stem: At base, ch 12, sl st back along chain and into leaf base. Fasten off. Block the leaf gently, keeping it narrow and slightly curved.

Beaded Scallop Drops

Add beads only after the shawl has been fully wet-blocked and dried. This prevents thread tension from distorting the lace.

Short drop: 3 seed beads + 1 teardrop pearl, on every other scallop near front and back center.

Medium drop: 5 seed beads + 1 teardrop pearl, at side sections and prominent large scallop points.

Accent drop: 7 seed beads + 1 teardrop pearl, optional at the two lowest side points only.

Step 1: Cut a 12 to 14 inch (30 to 35 cm) length of strong matching sewing thread. Knot securely around the base of a corded scallop, leaving a short tail to weave back later.

Step 2: Thread the seed beads followed by one teardrop pearl. Pass the needle back upward through all seed beads, skipping the pearl, to create a neat pendant drop.

Step 3: Take two tiny stitches through the same scallop base, then weave the thread through 1 to 2 adjacent crochet posts before trimming.

Step 4: Keep all drops short enough that they move freely but do not tangle with neighboring drops. Space them evenly rather than beading every scallop.

Finishing & Assembly

Attaching the leaves and dahlia: put on the shawl or place it on a dress form. Arrange the top draped bands so they gather naturally at the wearer’s left shoulder (right side when viewed from the front).

Pin the longer lace leaf so it points diagonally downward toward the upper arm; place the shorter leaf slightly toward the front neckline. Sew each leaf at the base and in 2 to 3 discreet points along the center spine.

Center the dahlia over the leaf bases. The flower should overlap the gathered shawl bands but should not compress them flat. Using doubled matching thread, stitch the flower base disk to the shawl at 8 to 10 points around the disk perimeter, catching sturdy dc posts rather than delicate chain loops. Add 3 to 4 anchoring stitches through the inner disk only; do not sew through upper petal layers.

Optional: sew a small snap or hook-and-eye beneath the flower to help the top edge remain in place during wear.

Blocking: use a fine metallic carry thread for Edging Row 3 and for the flower’s inner petal ring only. Hand wash cool, support the lace fully when wet, and re-block the scallops after washing.

Tips

Gauge is less important than drape for this project, but neckline circumference and shoulder span definitely matter. Make a 24 to 30 stitch lace swatch using your chosen yarn and block it exactly as you plan to block the finished shawl before starting.

Before wearing, check that the neckline lies flat, the sides are elbow-length while center-front corners are shorter, all pineapple points are open and symmetrical after blocking, and the bead drops hang freely and are individually secured.

Care: hand wash cool and support the lace fully when wet. Store flat rather than hanging for long periods to preserve the shape.