Navy Nautical Floral Bucket Bag Free Crochet Pattern

I am completely obsessed with bags that look like something you would buy at a boutique, and this navy nautical floral bucket bag is exactly that kind of project. It combines a gorgeous mock cable texture with cheerful daisy appliques, little brass anchor charms on the drawstring, and a proper leather strap — and the best part is, you made it yourself, with your own two hands and a hook.

We will work from the bottom up in the round, starting with a flat circular base and building up through a dense single crochet section before transitioning into the stunning cable texture. The mock cable pattern uses front post and back post stitches to create that woven, twisted look with no cable needle required, and the daisies are sewn on afterward so you can position them exactly where you want them.

This is an intermediate to advanced pattern, and I will walk you through every single step. If you have made a few amigurumi projects and practiced front post double crochet before, you can absolutely handle this.

Materials

• 550 yards of medium weight cotton yarn in navy blue (Yarn A)
• 80 yards of medium weight cotton yarn in white (Yarn B, for the drawstring channel, daisy petals and drawstring cords)
• 20 yards of medium weight cotton yarn in gold / mustard (Yarn C, for daisy centers)
• 4.0mm (US G-6) crochet hook for the main body and daisy motifs
• 5.0mm (US H-8) crochet hook for the drawstring cord only
• At least 4 stitch markers
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• 2 antique brass anchor charms with jump rings, approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) each
• 1 pre-made navy leather or faux-leather adjustable crossbody strap, approximately 48 inches (122 cm), with antique brass swivel clasps and D-rings
• 4 antique brass D-rings, 0.75 inch (2 cm)
• 4 antique brass rivets or split rings
• Leather punch or awl
• Stiff non-woven interfacing or craft foam circle, 10 inches (25.5 cm) diameter, for base stiffening (optional but recommended)
• Blocking mat and pins, and a spray bottle with water

Abbreviations

• beg: beginning
• BLO: back loop only
• BPdc: back post double crochet
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• FPdc: front post double crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch)
• MR: magic ring
• pm: place marker
• rep: repeat
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sc2tog: single crochet two together
• sk: skip
• sl st: slip stitch
• sp: space
• st/sts: stitch / stitches
• WS: wrong side
• yo: yarn over

Special Stitches

• Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): yarn over, insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the designated stitch below (around the vertical part of the stitch, not into the top loops), yarn over and pull up a loop so you have three loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.
• Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): yarn over, insert your hook from back to front to back around the post of the designated stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop so you have three loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.
• Cable Panel (worked over 4 stitches): skip the next 2 stitches, FPdc around each of the following 2 stitches, then working behind the stitches you just made, FPdc around each of the 2 skipped stitches. One 4-stitch cable cross complete — this cross always leans to the right as viewed from the right side.

Gauge & Size

• Finished size: approximately 10 inches wide at the base (25.5 cm), 11 inches tall at the center back not including drawstring loops (28 cm), 13 inches wide at the opening rim (33 cm); base circumference approximately 31.5 inches (80 cm), opening circumference approximately 40 inches (101.5 cm)
• Gauge: 18 stitches x 20 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm) in single crochet with Yarn A and the G-6 (4.0 mm) hook
• Construction: flat circular base in joined rounds, sides in continuous spiral rounds, mock cable texture body, drawstring channel and rim, 8 daisy appliques sewn on, 2 drawstring cords with anchor charms, D-ring tabs with a clip-on strap
• Skill level: Advanced

Pattern Notes

The bag body is worked in continuous rounds from the bottom up — do not join rounds unless specifically instructed, and use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you go. The base is worked flat in joined rounds; from Round 7 onward the sides are worked in continuous spiral rounds, and the right side of the bag is always facing outward. Daisy motifs are made separately and sewn on after the body is complete. For a cleaner color join when switching to Yarn B for the drawstring channel round, complete the last yarn pull of the final stitch in the prior round with Yarn B.

Base Pattern

The base is worked as a flat circle using joined rounds, increasing on every round to create a flat disc. Ch 1 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch throughout.

Round 1: With Yarn A and G-6 hook, make a magic ring. Ch 1. Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull tail to close ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1. (Sc 1, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (18 sc)

Round 4: Ch 1. (Sc 2, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (24 sc)

Round 5: Ch 1. (Sc 3, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (30 sc)

Round 6: Ch 1. (Sc 4, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (36 sc)

Round 7: Ch 1. (Sc 5, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (42 sc)

Round 8: Ch 1. (Sc 6, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (48 sc)

Round 9: Ch 1. (Sc 7, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (54 sc)

Round 10: Ch 1. (Sc 8, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (60 sc)

Round 11: Ch 1. (Sc 9, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (66 sc)

Round 12: Ch 1. (Sc 10, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (72 sc)

Round 13: Ch 1. (Sc 11, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (78 sc)

Round 14: Ch 1. (Sc 12, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (84 sc)

Checkpoint: after Round 14, the base should measure approximately 9 to 9.5 inches (23 to 24 cm) in diameter. If it is larger, move down one hook size; if smaller, move up one hook size and restart the base for the most accurate finished dimensions. Do not fasten off — continue without joining into the side section.

Lower Side Body (Rounds 15 to 28)

At the start of Round 15, stop joining and begin working in a continuous spiral. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of Round 15 and move it up each round.

Round 15: Sc in each st around. (84 sc)

Round 16: (Sc 13, 2 sc in next st) around. (90 sc)

Round 17: Sc in each st around. (90 sc)

Round 18: (Sc 14, 2 sc in next st) around. (96 sc)

Round 19: Sc in each st around. (96 sc)

Round 20: (Sc 15, 2 sc in next st) around. (102 sc)

Round 21: Sc in each st around. (102 sc)

Round 22: (Sc 16, 2 sc in next st) around. (108 sc)

Round 23: Sc in each st around. (108 sc)

Round 24: (Sc 17, 2 sc in next st) around. (114 sc)

Round 25: Sc in each st around. (114 sc)

Round 26: (Sc 18, 2 sc in next st) around. (120 sc)

Round 27: Sc in each st around. (120 sc)

Round 28: Sc in each st around. (120 sc)

Checkpoint: after Round 28, the side walls should be approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall measured from the base join line, and the fabric should be standing upright with no significant flare.

Transition Round

Round 29 establishes the post-stitch foundation. Because post stitches wrap around the posts of the stitches below, this round is worked in regular double crochet to create posts to work around on Round 30.

Round 29: Dc in each st around. (120 dc)

This round is slightly taller than the single crochet rounds below, which is correct and expected.

Cable Texture Body (Rounds 30 to 50)

The cable texture alternates between a Rib Round using FPdc and BPdc and a Cable Cross Round using the Cable Panel stitch. Here is where the magic happens!

Round 30 (Rib Round): (FPdc around next dc, BPdc around next dc) around. (120 sts)

Round 31 (Cable Cross Round): Work the Cable Panel over every 4 stitches around — that is: (skip 2, FPdc around each of next 2 sts, FPdc around each of the 2 skipped sts) around. (120 sts)

Round 32 (Rib Round): (FPdc around next st, BPdc around next st) around. (120 sts)

Round 33 (Cable Cross Round): (Skip 2, FPdc in each of next 2, FPdc in each of 2 skipped sts) around. (120 sts)

Rounds 34 to 50: Continue alternating — even rounds (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50) are Rib Rounds, and odd rounds (35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49) are Cable Cross Rounds. (120 sts each round)

Checkpoint: after Round 50, the total bag body from base to top should measure approximately 9 to 9.5 inches (23 to 24 cm), and the cable texture section alone should measure approximately 5.5 to 6 inches (14 to 15 cm).

Drawstring Channel (Rounds 51 to 53)

Switch to Yarn B (white) on the last pull-through of the final stitch of Round 50.

Round 51: With Yarn B, sc in each st around, working into the tops of the post stitches. (120 sc)

Round 52 (Eyelet Round): (Sc 3, ch 2, sk 2) around. (24 ch-2 spaces created)

Round 53: Sc in each sc around and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around. (120 sc)

Do not cut Yarn B — continue to the rim.

Rim (Rounds 54 to 56)

Round 54: Sc in each st around. (120 sc)

Round 55: Sc in each st around. (120 sc)

Round 56: Sl st in each st around. Join with sl st to first sl st. Fasten off Yarn B and weave in ends.

The slip stitch final round creates that slightly rolled, tidy edge along the top of the bag.

Daisy Appliques (Make 8)

You will need 4 daisies for the front and 4 for the back of your bag. The finished daisy is approximately 2.5 inches (6.5 cm) in diameter.

Daisy Center — Round 1: With Yarn C (gold) and G-6 hook, make a magic ring. Ch 1. 6 sc into magic ring. Pull tail to close. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not fasten off. (6 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st. Fasten off Yarn C, leaving a 6-inch tail. (12 sc)

Daisy Petals: Join Yarn B (white) with a standing sc in any stitch of Round 2 of the daisy center.

Petal Round: In each stitch of Round 2 work the following petal: (sc 1 in current st, ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sl st in same st at base of ch). This creates one elongated petal per stitch of Round 2, so you will have 12 petals total. After completing all 12 petals, join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off Yarn B, leaving a 10-inch tail for sewing.

Placement: position the daisy band approximately 4 inches (10 cm) from the top rim of the bag, centered vertically in the cable texture section. Space 4 daisies evenly around the front half and 4 daisies evenly around the back half — with 120 stitches total and 8 daisies, each daisy is placed approximately 15 stitches apart. Using your yarn needle, sew each daisy firmly to the bag through the center disc, then use the petal yarn tail to tack down any petals that curl away from the bag surface.

Drawstring Cords (Make 2)

With Yarn B held double and the H-8 hook, chain 120. Sl st in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off. This creates a firm, rounded cord approximately 24 inches (61 cm) long — the slip stitching back through the chain causes the cord to naturally twist on itself slightly, mimicking a rope. Make 2 cords.

Attaching the anchor charms: open the jump ring on each anchor charm, thread the jump ring through the knotted end of one cord, and close the jump ring with pliers. Attach one charm to each drawstring cord at their lower ends.

Threading the drawstring: thread one cord through the eyelet round (Round 52), beginning at the left side of the bag, going through every other eyelet (12 of the 24 total) around the full circumference and exiting at the left side again. Thread the second cord beginning at the right side through the remaining 12 eyelets. When both cords are pulled simultaneously, the bag closes from both sides, and both anchor charms will hang at the front center when the bag is closed.

Finishing & Assembly

D-Ring Tabs: cut 2 strips of navy leather or faux leather, each 1 inch wide by 3 inches long. Fold each strip through a D-ring and align the cut ends together. Using a leather punch, make 2 holes through both layers of each folded strip. Insert brass rivets through the holes and set with a hammer or rivet setter.

Attaching the tabs to the bag: at each side point of the bag, use the awl to pierce 2 holes through the bag fabric, approximately 0.75 inch apart vertically, positioned just below the drawstring channel. Thread the flat end of the D-ring tab through from outside to inside and back out through the second hole. On the inside, use 2 additional rivets or heavy thread to secure the tab flat against the bag interior.

Clip the swivel clasps of your crossbody strap to the two D-rings and adjust the strap length as needed.

Base stiffener (optional): cut a circle of stiff interfacing or craft foam to match the base diameter, approximately 9.5 inches (24 cm). If desired, cover it with a scrap of lining fabric and whipstitch the edges closed. Drop the stiffener into the base of the bag — it should sit snugly without any stitching required.

Tips

Tension matters: keep your stitches consistent throughout the cable section. If you tend to crochet loosely, go down a hook size; too tight, go up. And please take the time to check your gauge — even a half stitch per inch difference will significantly alter the circumference and height of the finished bag.

Block your daisies before sewing them on — a quick steam or wet block helps the petals lay flat and even. And before sewing permanently, use pins to position all 8 daisies, then step back and look at the bag from different angles to make sure the spacing looks right.

Take breaks during the cable section. Those post stitches can be hard on your hands, so set a timer and stretch every 30 minutes.

Use a smooth worsted weight cotton yarn for this bag — cotton gives the stiffness and drape needed to hold the bucket shape, while fuzzy or textured yarns will obscure the cable texture and daisy details.