Winter White Snowflake Lace Bucket Bag Free Crochet Pattern

This bucket bag is such a lovely mix of practical and pretty! A sturdy grey single crochet body does all the hard work, and then a delicate white snowflake lace overlay drapes over it for that romantic, vintage feel. I promise the lace breaks down into manageable motifs that we join as we go.

We start at the bottom and work up in continuous spiral rounds to build the bag body, shape a gentle taper at the top, and add a drawstring channel. Then we crochet five snowflake lace motifs, join them into a ring, and tack them over the body. A braided rope handle and tasselled drawstring finish it all off.

Intermediate crocheters will feel confident here, and ambitious beginners can absolutely tackle this with patience. Work slowly through the lace sections and count your stitches carefully, and you will be just fine.

Materials

• Approximately 400 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn in soft grey, main colour
• Approximately 300 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn in white or cream, contrast colour
• 4.0mm (G/6) crochet hook, for the bag body
• 3.5mm (E/4) crochet hook, for the lace overlay
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• 1 yard of cotton rope for the handle, approximately 8mm thickness
• 2 metal grommets (optional but recommended)

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• inc: increase, work 2 stitches into the same stitch
• dec: decrease, work 2 stitches together as one
• sk: skip
• sp: space
• BLO: back loop only
• st/sts: stitch / stitches

Gauge & Size

• Finished size: approximately 12 inches tall (not including handle), 10 inches wide at the widest point, base diameter approximately 7 inches
• Construction: bag body worked in continuous rounds from the base up, five lace motifs joined into an overlay ring, scalloped top edging, rope handle and drawstring added last
• Skill level: Intermediate
• Gauge: bag body 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 inches in single crochet; each completed snowflake motif measures approximately 4.5 inches across

Bag Base

We start from the bottom and work up in continuous spiral rounds. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you go. With grey and the 4.0mm hook:

Round 1: Magic ring, 6 sc into ring, pull tight. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. (30 sts)

Round 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. (36 sts)

Round 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. (42 sts)

Round 8: (Sc 6, inc) repeat around. (48 sts)

Round 9: (Sc 7, inc) repeat around. (54 sts)

Round 10: (Sc 8, inc) repeat around. (60 sts)

Round 11: (Sc 9, inc) repeat around. (66 sts)

Round 12: (Sc 10, inc) repeat around. (72 sts)

Your base should now measure approximately 7 inches across. If it seems too small, add another increase round following the pattern.

Bag Body

Now we build the sides by working even rounds without increases. This is where the bag takes shape.

Round 13: Working in back loops only, sc in each st around. (72 sts)

This back loop round creates a crisp edge at the base of your bag. From here, work through both loops as normal.

Rounds 14 to 50: Sc in each st around. (72 sts)

That is 37 rounds of even single crochet. Your bag body should measure approximately 8 inches tall at this point.

Shaping the Top

We gently decrease to create that tapered bucket shape near the opening.

Round 51: (Sc 10, dec) repeat around. (66 sts)

Rounds 52 to 54: Sc in each st around. (66 sts)

Round 55: (Sc 9, dec) repeat around. (60 sts)

Rounds 56 to 58: Sc in each st around. (60 sts)

Round 59: (Sc 8, dec) repeat around. (54 sts)

Rounds 60 to 62: Sc in each st around. (54 sts)

Drawstring Channel

Round 63: (Sc 3, ch 2, sk 2) repeat around. (54 sts total including chains)

This round creates small openings evenly spaced around the bag. Your drawstring will weave through these holes.

Round 64: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around. (54 sts)

Rounds 65 to 67: Sc in each st around. (54 sts)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Snowflake Lace Motifs (Make 5)

Now for the beautiful overlay. Each motif is worked separately, then joined. With white or cream and the 3.5mm hook:

Round 1: Magic ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 dc into ring, sl st to top of ch-3 to join. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. (24 dc)

Round 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch-1), (dc in next st, ch 1) repeat around, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. (24 dc, 24 ch-1 spaces)

Round 4: Sl st into ch-1 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, (3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2) repeat around, sl st to join. (24 shell clusters)

Round 5: Sl st to centre dc of shell, ch 5 (counts as dc plus ch-2), dc in same st, ch 3, sk next shell, ((dc, ch 2, dc) in centre dc of next shell, ch 3, sk next shell) repeat around, sl st to join. (12 V-stitches)

Round 6: Sl st into ch-2 sp, ch 3, 4 dc in same sp, ch 2, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 2, (5 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 2) repeat around, sl st to join. (12 fan shells)

Round 7: Ch 1, sc in first dc, (ch 3, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 4, sc in first dc of next shell) repeat around, adjusting the final join. Sl st to first sc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for joining.

Joining the Lace Overlay

Arrange your 5 completed motifs in a ring, overlapping the edges slightly. Using your tapestry needle and white yarn, whip stitch the motifs together at their touching points. Work carefully to maintain the lace pattern visibility.

Once joined, position the lace ring over your grey bag body. The bottom edge of the lace should sit approximately 3 inches up from the base. Pin in place.

Using white yarn and your tapestry needle, tack the lace to the bag body at several points along the bottom scalloped edge. Secure at the top edge as well, stitching invisibly into the grey stitches.

Scalloped Top Edging

With white or cream and the 3.5mm hook, join yarn at any point along the top edge of the bag.

Round 1: Sc evenly around the entire top opening, working through both the lace and the grey body where they overlap. Aim for approximately 54 sc. Sl st to join.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, (sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st) repeat around. Sl st to join.

Fasten off and weave in ends. This creates the pretty scalloped edge visible at the top of the bag.

Rope Handle

Cut your cotton rope to approximately 30 inches. Thread each end through the sides of the bag, approximately 2 inches below the top edge, on opposite sides.

If using grommets, install them first to protect the crochet fabric and create a clean look.

Knot each rope end securely on the inside of the bag. For extra security, wrap the knot area with matching yarn and stitch closed.

Drawstring & Tassels

For the drawstring, chain approximately 100 with white yarn, or cut a length of cotton rope approximately 36 inches long. Weave it through the ch-2 spaces created in Round 63.

For the tassels, make 2: wrap white yarn around a 4-inch piece of cardboard approximately 30 times. Slide off carefully. Tie tightly about half an inch from the top to create the tassel head. Cut the loops at the bottom and trim evenly.

Attach one tassel to each end of the drawstring.

Finishing & Assembly

Weave in all remaining yarn tails. Block the lace portion if desired by misting with water and pinning flat to dry. This really opens up the lace pattern and makes it shine.

Give the whole bag a light steam pressing to set the stitches, being careful not to crush the lace.

Tips

Keep your single crochet stitches tight and consistent for the bag body. This prevents sagging and stretching when the bag holds weight, and those stitch markers are your best friend, especially during the increase and decrease rounds.

Block your motifs before joining. Taking five minutes to block each lace piece makes joining so much easier and gives a professional finish.

Reinforce the stress points where the handle attaches, since that area sees the most wear. You can also add a fabric lining for heavy use.