Mint Daisy Shell Placemat Crochet Pattern

I have been dreaming about this design for months. I wanted a placemat that felt like spring on a table, with layers of colour and texture that make people stop and stare: a smooth ivory center medallion with radiating lines, a ring of cheerful little daisies, and an outer border that alternates between deep emerald and soft mint shells. I am so pleased with how it turned out, and I cannot wait to walk you through every step.

We will work joined rounds from the center outward, make 24 separate daisy motifs, and join everything together with elegant shell borders. The finished placemat measures about 15 to 16 inches across after blocking, with the center plate area spanning about 9.5 to 10 inches before the floral border begins.

This is a confident intermediate project. You will want to be comfortable with joined rounds, increasing a flat circle evenly, bobbles, working into chain spaces, and joining separate motifs to a main piece. Each technique on its own is friendly; it is combining them that asks for a little attention. Let us start.

Materials

• 95 to 110 yards of sport weight or light DK mercerized cotton in ivory (Color A), for the center medallion and cluster round
• 12 to 18 yards of sport weight or light DK mercerized cotton in sunflower yellow (Color B), for the starburst and daisy centers
• 35 to 45 yards of sport weight or light DK mercerized cotton in sage green (Color C), for the inner scallop frame
• 55 to 70 yards of sport weight or light DK mercerized cotton in mint (Color D), for chain arches, alternating shells and the picot finish
• 30 to 40 yards of sport weight or light DK mercerized cotton in emerald (Color E), for alternating outer shell fans
• 12 to 20 yards of fine warm gold crochet thread or metallic embroidery thread (Color F), for accent edging
• 3.0mm (US D) crochet hook, for main work
• 2.5mm crochet hook (optional), for daisies if your motifs come out loose
• Tapestry needle
• Locking stitch markers
• Scissors
• Rustproof blocking pins, blocking mat and tape measure

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• sp: space
• st/sts: stitch / stitches
• rnd: round
• rep: repeat
• sk: skip
• yo: yarn over

Special Stitches

• Yellow Bobble: yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat 4 more times in the same stitch (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all loops, chain 1 to close. The bobble should project toward the front of your work.
• 3-dc Cluster (cl): in indicated space, work 3 double crochet stitches, leaving the last loop of each dc on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to secure.
• 5-dc Shell: work 5 double crochet stitches in the same indicated space.
• 7-dc Fan: work 7 double crochet stitches in the same indicated space.
• Picot: chain 3, slip stitch in the first chain made.
• Standing dc (optional): with a slip knot on hook, yarn over, insert in indicated space, pull up a loop and complete a double crochet. Use in place of chain 3 starts for an invisible join.

Gauge & Size

• Finished size: about 15 to 16 inches (38 to 41 cm) in diameter after blocking; center plate area about 9.5 to 10 inches
• Construction: center medallion worked in joined rounds, 24 daisy motifs attached to mint arches, shell border worked around
• Skill level: Intermediate (confident)

Center Medallion Pattern

Work all rounds with the right side facing you, and place a marker in the first stitch of each round. Numbers in parentheses are the total stitches or repeat units for the round. We begin with the sunflower starburst in yellow (Color B).

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch), work 12 dc into the ring. Join with sl st to first dc. Tighten the ring securely. (12 dc)

Round 2: Chain 1, then work (sc in next dc, ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sl st in next ch) around the entire round. Join to first sc. Fasten off. (12 pointed rays)

You now have a cheerful sunflower center with 12 little rays. Join ivory (Color A) for the radiating disk.

Round 3: Join Ivory in any sc from Round 2. Chain 3 (counts as dc), dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each remaining sc around. Join to top of ch-3. (24 dc)

Round 4: Chain 3, dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around. Join. (36 dc)

Round 5: Chain 3, dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around, ending with dc in last stitch. Join. (48 dc)

Round 6: Chain 3, dc in next 2 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around. Join. (60 dc)

Round 7: Chain 3, dc in next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around. Join. (72 dc)

Round 8: Chain 3, dc in next 4 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next 5 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around. Join. (84 dc)

Round 9: Chain 3, dc in next 5 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next 6 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around. Join. (96 dc)

Round 10: Chain 3, dc in next 6 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next 7 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around. Join. (108 dc)

Round 11: Chain 3, dc in next 7 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next 8 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around. Join. (120 dc)

Round 12: Chain 3, dc in next 8 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch. (Dc in next 9 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) repeat around. Join. (132 dc)

At the end of Round 12, your medallion should measure about 9.5 to 10 inches and lie perfectly flat. The next round must be divisible by 24, so we adjust as we go.

Round 13 (setup, Ivory): Chain 1, sc evenly around, increasing as needed to end with exactly 144 sc. Join to first sc. Fasten off. (144 sc = 24 groups of 6)

Sage Scallop Transition

Round 14 (Sage, Color C): Join sage in any sc. Chain 1, sc in same stitch. (Chain 4, skip next 5 sc, sc in next sc) repeat around, ending with chain 4. Join to first sc. (24 ch-4 arches)

Round 15 (Sage, Color C): Slip stitch into first ch-4 space. Chain 1, work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in same space and in each ch-4 space around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (24 scallops)

Gold outline: with fine gold thread (Color F) and a smaller hook, surface slip stitch along the outer ridge of each sage scallop, keeping the line loose enough that the edge stays flat.

Mint Arch Foundation

Round 16 (Mint, Color D): Join mint in the center dc of any sage scallop. Chain 1, sc in same stitch. (Chain 7, sc in center dc of next scallop) repeat around, ending chain 7. Join to first sc. (24 ch-7 arches)

Round 17 (Mint, Color D): Slip stitch into first ch-7 space. Work 7 sc in each ch-7 space around. Join to first sc. Fasten off. (168 sc distributed over 24 arches)

Daisy Motifs (Make 24)

Each daisy is worked separately, then attached to one mint arch. Keep the motifs small and lightly dimensional so the border stays practical under tableware.

Daisy Round 1 (Yellow, Color B): Make a magic ring. Chain 1, work 8 sc into ring. Join to first sc. Do not turn. (8 sc)

Daisy Round 2 (Yellow, Color B): Chain 1, work 1 bobble into each sc around. Join to first bobble. Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail for attaching later. (8 bobbles)

Daisy Round 3 (White petals, Color A or bright white): Join white between any two bobbles. Chain 4, 2 tr in same gap, chain 4, sl st in same gap. Slip stitch into next gap between bobbles. Repeat around. Fasten off. (8 petals)

If you prefer flatter daisies, substitute 2 dc for the 2 tr. Make all 24 daisies before moving on to attachment.

Attaching the Daisies

Lay the placemat flat with Round 17 facing up, and center one daisy over each mint arch. Using the white tail or a separate length of white yarn, tack the back of two opposite petals to the 2nd and 6th sc of the corresponding 7-sc mint arch. Add one tiny tack through the back of the yellow center into the 4th sc of the arch, without pulling tightly, so the center stays modestly raised. Repeat for all 24 daisies, checking that every flower faces the same direction and the ring lies flat before weaving in tails.

Outer Shell Border

The outer border is worked behind and between the daisies so the petals stay visible. Work into the mint arch stitches that are not occupied by the attachment tacks.

Round 18 (Mint, Color D): Join mint in the first free sc after any daisy attachment point. Chain 1, sc in same stitch. (Chain 5 behind the next daisy, sc in first free sc after that daisy) repeat around. Join. (24 ch-5 bridge spaces)

Round 19 (alternating Mint D and Emerald E): Slip stitch into first ch-5 space. With Mint, work (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc) in first ch-5 space. Drop mint to the back (do not cut). Join Emerald in next ch-5 space and work (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc). Pick up mint and work the same fan in the next space, then emerald in the next. Repeat around. Join last fan neatly. (24 fans: 12 mint, 12 emerald)

Carry the resting yarn loosely along the back only across one fan. If the carried strand shows or tightens the edge, cut and rejoin each fan instead; extra tails are better than a distorted circle.

Gold edging: surface slip stitch loosely across the top loops of the 7 dc in each fan, dipping one stitch down at each fan valley. Do not work gold across the sc and hdc base stitches.

Cluster Crown & Picot Finish

Round 20 (Ivory, Color A): Join ivory in the center (4th) dc of any 7-dc fan. Chain 1, sc in same stitch. (Chain 3, cluster in the valley between this fan and the next fan, chain 3, sc in center dc of next fan) repeat around. Join to first sc. (24 clusters, 24 center sc)

Round 21 (Ivory, Color A): Slip stitch into first ch-3 space. Chain 1, (sc, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sc) in each ch-3 space around. Join. Fasten off. (48 small upright points, two per fan interval)

Round 22 (Mint, Color D): Join mint in any outer ch-3 tip. Chain 1, sc in same tip. (Chain 2, picot, chain 2, sc in next outer ch-3 tip) repeat around. Join with an invisible join. Fasten off. (48 picots)

Finishing & Assembly

Weave in all ends on the wrong side, changing direction at least once so cotton tails do not pull free during washing. Fill a basin with cool to lukewarm water and a little gentle soap, and soak the placemat for 10 to 15 minutes without agitation. Rinse thoroughly, press out the water in a towel without wringing, and lay flat on a blocking mat.

Measure from the center to the edge in at least eight directions, and pin the final circle to 15 to 16 inches. Pin every 2 to 3 picots, and lightly shape each daisy so its petals radiate evenly while the centers stay slightly raised. Allow to dry completely before removing the pins, and avoid direct high heat if you used metallic gold thread.

For care, hand wash, or machine wash inside a mesh bag on a gentle cycle in cool water if your yarn label allows. Reshape and dry flat, and re-block after washing if the decorative edge contracts.

Tips

If your center cups upward, your tension is tight: add 2 to 4 evenly spaced increases in the next plain round, or go up 0.25mm in hook size. If it ripples, remove 2 to 4 increases or go down a hook size.

If the daisy ring pulls inward, increase each Round 18 bridge from chain 5 to chain 6. If the shell border ruffles, replace the 7-dc fans with 5-dc shells or shorten the bridges by 1 chain; if it cups, use 8 to 9 dc in each fan or lengthen the bridges by 1 chain.

For a matching set of four placemats, buy at least 4 times the listed yardage plus 10 percent extra, and make all the center medallions first, then all the daisies, then finish the borders assembly-line style for the best consistency.