Emerald Botanical Bracelet Free Crochet Pattern

This emerald botanical bracelet is such a special make! We will work with fine emerald cotton thread and a strand of gold metallic thread held together to create a firm, cord-like band, then decorate it with eight little veined leaves and a layered, beaded rose that sits right at the center.

The band comes first, built from two identical slip stitch cord strips that we layer and join together. The leaves are made separately and pinned into place before any sewing happens, so we can adjust the arrangement until it looks perfectly balanced, and the rose is worked in a continuous spiral that naturally curls up into a three-dimensional bloom.

It is a small project, but it asks for tight, even tension and a little patience with the fine thread and tiny steel hook. I would call it Intermediate, and the result, an adjustable bracelet with sliding barrel knots, beaded tassel ends and that gorgeous rose, is so worth it.

Materials

• 1 ball (approximately 300 yards) size 10 crochet cotton thread in deep emerald green
• 1 spool (approximately 50 yards) fine gold metallic thread, size 10 equivalent
• Steel crochet hook size 7 (1.65 mm)
• Approximately 40 gold metallic seed beads, size 8/0
• Approximately 12 green metallic seed beads, size 8/0
• Fine beading needle
• Tapestry needle
• At least 4 stitch markers
• Blocking board and rust-proof pins
• Fine mist spray bottle, for blocking
• Sharp scissors

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• inc: increase, work 2 sc in the same stitch
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• ch-sp: chain space
• MR: magic ring
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• st/sts: stitch / stitches
• rep: repeat
• sk: skip
• pm: place marker

Special Stitches

• Cord Slip Stitch (CSS): insert your hook into the back bump of the chain only, yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook. Keep tension very tight and even. This produces a firm, rounded cord texture rather than a flat chain
• Surface Slip Stitch (SSS): with the right side facing, insert your hook from front to back through a stitch, draw up a loop of yarn from the wrong side to the right side, insert the hook one stitch forward and draw the yarn through both loops on the hook. Do not turn your work. This creates a raised vein line on the surface
• Picot-3: chain 3, then slip stitch into the first chain of those 3, creating a small triangular bump
• Petal Spiral Start (PSS): make a magic ring, chain 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Do not join. Continue working in a continuous outward spiral, placing a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and moving it up as you work
• Beaded Slip Stitch (BSS): thread a bead onto your working yarn before making the slip stitch, slide the bead snug against the work, then complete the slip stitch so the bead sits on the visible face

Gauge & Size

• Gauge (both threads held together throughout): 20 slip stitches over a tight foundation chain = 1 inch (2.5 cm); 18 single crochet rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm). Gauge is critical for the band length, so swatch first: chain 30 tightly, slip stitch back along the chain into the back bump only, and measure 20 stitches
• Finished size: each band strip measures approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm) long; the finished rose measures approximately 1.25 inches in diameter; large leaves approximately 1 inch long, small leaves approximately 0.75 inch long; adjustable sliding closure
• Construction: two cord strips joined into a band, 8 leaves and a spiral rose made separately and sewn on, sliding barrel knot closure with beaded tassel ends
• Skill level: Intermediate

Band Pattern

Both threads are held together as one throughout the whole project unless stated otherwise, and we cut both threads at the same point when fastening off. The finished band should feel very firm, almost like paracord. If it feels floppy, your tension is too loose.

Band Strip A, Foundation: Chain 110 tightly. (110 ch)

Row 1 (CSS row): Working into back bumps only, sl st in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (109 sl st)

Row 2: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch here or anywhere in the band), working into back loop only of each sl st, sl st in each st across. Turn. (109 sl st)

Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (109 sl st)

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for seaming.

Band Strip B: Repeat Band Strip A exactly. Do not fasten off the second strip yet.

Each strip should measure approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm) long and be very firm. If your strips are longer than 6 inches, your tension is too loose; if shorter than 5 inches, too tight. Adjust and redo before continuing.

Joining the band strips: Hold Strip A and Strip B together with wrong sides facing each other, so the right side of each strip faces outward. Using the live yarn still attached to Strip B, insert the hook through the corresponding edge stitches of both strips simultaneously and sl st through both layers across the full length of one long edge, working through the outermost loop of each strip. (109 sl st joining seam)

Fasten off and weave in this end securely. Using the tail from Strip A, join the opposite long edge in the same manner using a tapestry needle and whip stitch, keeping tension even and the band flat. Weave in all ends except the two original starting tails, which become the adjustable closure tails. Do not trim them; they should each be at least 10 inches long. If shorter, thread a new 14-inch length through the band end to replace the tail.

At the center of the band, place a stitch marker on each side to mark the center 1.5-inch segment. This is where the rose will attach. Set the band aside.

Leaf Pattern

We will make 4 large leaves and 4 small leaves, 8 in total. The 4 large leaves flank the rose directly, and the 4 small leaves extend outward along the band in pairs. The right side of each leaf is the side where the vein detail is worked.

Large Leaf (make 4), Foundation: Chain 14. (14 ch)

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next ch, work 3 sc in the last ch (this turns the corner at the leaf tip). Now rotate work and work back along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 4 ch. Do not join. Place a marker in the first sc of the row. (29 sts total around the leaf)

Row 2: Working in a continuous spiral, sl st in the first marked st, ch 1, sc in each st around the outer edge, working 3 sc into the center st of the 3-sc tip group. Join with sl st to first sc. (31 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail for sewing.

Vein detail for large leaf: Reattach yarn at the base of the leaf on the RS. Using Surface Slip Stitch, work a center vein line from base to tip: SSS in every other stitch along the center column of the leaf all the way to the tip (approximately 7 SSS along the center vein). Fasten off and weave in ends. Reattach yarn at one side of the center vein midpoint and work 3 SSS diagonally toward the leaf edge to create a side branch vein. Fasten off. Repeat on the other side, and repeat for the lower portion of the leaf, making 2 more branch veins on each side closer to the base. You will have 1 center vein and 4 side branch veins per large leaf.

Small Leaf (make 4), Foundation: Chain 10. (10 ch)

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch, work 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate work and work back along the opposite side: sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 ch. Do not join. (21 sts total around the leaf)

Row 2: Sl st in the first st at base, ch 1, sc in each st around, working 3 sc into the center st of the 3-sc tip group. Join with sl st to first sc. (23 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail for sewing.

Vein detail for small leaf: Reattach yarn at the base on the RS. Work an SSS center vein from base to tip (approximately 5 SSS). Work 2 side branch veins on each side using 2 stitches per branch instead of 3. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Before moving to the rose, you should have 4 large leaves measuring approximately 1 inch long by 0.5 inch wide, and 4 small leaves measuring approximately 0.75 inch long by 0.4 inch wide, all with completed vein detail. Pin them to a blocking board, mist lightly, and allow to dry fully before assembly.

Rose Pattern

The rose is built from a center spiral worked outward in increasing rounds, without joining. Use a stitch marker to track the start of each round, and do not fight the natural inward curl, because that curling creates the three-dimensional bloom shape.

Step 1: Using the PSS technique, make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Place a stitch marker in the first sc. Do not join. (6 sc)

Step 2 (Round 1 of spiral): Working in a continuous spiral, inc in each of the 6 sc around. (12 sc)

Step 3 (Round 2): (Sc in next st, inc in next st) 6 times. (18 sc)

Step 4 (Round 3): (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (24 sc)

Step 5 (Round 4): (Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) 6 times. (30 sc)

The disc should measure approximately 0.75 inch in diameter and will have begun to cup upward at the edges naturally.

Step 6 (Round 5, inner petals): Working now in the front loop only, (ch 3, sc in BLO of next 2 sts) 10 times. (10 petal loops created, 30 sts consumed)

Step 7 (Round 6): Still in FLO, (ch 4, sc in BLO of next 3 sts) 8 times, ch 4, sc in BLO of next 2 sts. (9 petal loops created)

Step 8 (Round 7, outer petals): Working into the back loop only of the sts from Round 4 that were skipped by the FLO working in Rounds 5 and 6, join yarn if necessary to the first unworked BLO st from Round 4. Work (ch 5, sc in next 4 BLO sts) 5 times, then ch 5, sc in next 2 BLO sts to close the round. (6 large outer petal loops created)

Step 9: Working along the outer edge, sl st into each ch-5 loop around once more to reinforce and stiffen the outer petals. (6 reinforced petal loops)

Step 10 (rose stem extension): From the base of the rose, without fastening off, ch 12 (this becomes the first stem tendril). Sl st in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch back toward the rose. Sl st into the rose base. (11 sl st along tendril)

Repeat for a second tendril: ch 10, sl st in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch. Sl st into base. (9 sl st along second tendril)

Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for attaching the rose to the band.

Rose center beading: Thread a beading needle with a 20-inch length of thread (single strand of crochet cotton, no metallic) and knot the end. Bring the needle up through the center of the rose from the wrong side. Thread on one gold seed bead and take the needle back down adjacent to where it came up. Repeat until the rose center is densely filled with approximately 8 to 10 gold seed beads arranged in the central spiral area. Knot securely on the WS.

The finished rose should measure approximately 1.25 inches in diameter, be distinctly three-dimensional with layered petal loops rising from center outward, and have a densely beaded center, with the two tendril stems extending from the base.

Finishing & Assembly

Fold the band in half to find the true center point and mark it with a stitch marker. Overlap the band into a loop shape by laying the right end over the left end, forming a 1.5-inch overlap at the center. Do not sew the overlap yet; the decorative panel stitched over it holds it in place.

Sliding closure: At the point where the two band ends cross, make a small sliding barrel knot using the working tails. With one tail, chain 6, then wrap this chain tightly twice around both overlapping band strands, then sl st into the first ch. Trim the excess tail to 0.25 inch and secure with a small drop of clear nail polish for cotton thread. Repeat with the other tail to create a second barrel knot 0.25 inch away from the first.

Tassel ends: Cut each of the four free cord ends to 2.5 inches beyond the outermost barrel. Thread 2 gold seed beads and 1 green metallic bead onto each end. Tie an overhand knot after the last bead to secure, and apply a small drop of clear-drying craft glue behind each knot. Allow to dry fully.

Attaching the leaves: Arrange the leaves on the band with the rose still set aside. Working outward from where the rose will sit, place one large leaf on each side angling upward and outward at approximately 30 degrees from horizontal, a second large leaf on each side angling slightly downward at 15 degrees, and 2 small leaves on each side further along the band, one above and one below the band line. Using the tapestry needle and sewing tails, stitch each leaf to the band with 6 to 8 small, tight whip stitches around each leaf base, overlapping the band by approximately 0.25 inch. Weave all ends into the back of the band. Add 2 gold seed beads at each leaf base junction with the beading needle.

Attaching the rose: Center the rose over the band overlap point, covering it completely, with the two tendril stems extending below and to either side of the rose base. Using the 12-inch tail and a tapestry needle, stitch the rose base firmly to the band using a tight circular whip stitch around the entire base perimeter, going through the band fabric at least 8 times. The rose should feel completely immobile when tugged gently. Weave the end through the band layers and trim. Tack the tendril stems to the band surface at their ends with 2 to 3 stitches.

Mist the entire finished bracelet lightly with water. Pin the leaf motifs flat on a blocking board, spreading the vein lines gently with fingertips, and allow the rose to remain three-dimensional and unpinned. Allow to dry completely, at least 4 hours. Once dry, check all bead attachments by gently tugging each bead and reinforce any that move. Trim all ends to within 0.125 inch of the fabric and apply clear-drying fabric glue to each trimmed end. Allow to cure for 1 hour.

Tips

Keep your band tension very tight and even. The band should feel firm like paracord; a floppy band means the slip stitches are too loose.

Pin all the leaves to the band and admire the arrangement before sewing a single stitch. That pause is what gives the bracelet its symmetry.

For a smaller wrist range of 5.5 to 7 inches, reduce each band strip foundation chain by 10 chains (start with 100 chains, giving 99 working sl st). For a larger wrist range of 7 to 9.5 inches, increase each foundation chain by 10 (start with 120 chains, giving 119 working sl st). The rose and leaf motifs do not need resizing.

For a wider band, add one additional Row 2 repetition to each strip, giving 4 rows of slip stitch per strip instead of 3.