Blush Pink Strawberry Baby Romper Set Free Crochet Pattern

Table of Contents
I absolutely melt over a matching baby outfit with tiny coordinating accessories, and this blush pink strawberry set is my favourite gift make! You get a bubble romper with a sweet cream bib panel, a ruffled sun bonnet, and the tiniest booties with satin ribbon bows — all tied together with handmade strawberry appliqués.
We will work the romper in two flat panels with a separate cream bib, the bonnet from the crown down with a ruffled brim, and the booties from the sole up. The star of the show is the herringbone half double crochet, which gives that gorgeous woven texture — once you learn the one special stitch, the whole set comes together smoothly.
The set fits 0 to 3 months: the romper chest is 14 inches, the bonnet fits a 14 to 15 inch head, and the booties have a 3.5 inch sole. Plan for 12 to 18 hours across all three pieces, and let us enjoy every one!
Materials
- 350 yards / 320 m DK weight yarn in Color A: dusty rose (main colour)
- 75 yards / 69 m DK weight yarn in Color B: cream / off-white (bib panel)
- 25 yards / 23 m DK weight yarn in Color C: red (strawberry body)
- 15 yards / 14 m DK weight yarn in Color D: grass green (leaves and stem)
- 10 yards / 9 m DK weight yarn in Color E: white (blossom petals)
- Less than 5 yards DK weight yarn in Color F: yellow (blossom center)
- US G-6 / 4.0mm crochet hook (romper body and bonnet)
- US E-4 / 3.5mm crochet hook (booties and appliqués)
- 6 copper or rose-gold snap buttons, 15mm (4 for crotch, 1 per shoulder strap)
- 1 yard / 1 m of 3/8 inch satin ribbon in blush pink, cut into two 18 inch lengths for the booties
- Yarn needle
- 6 to 8 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Sewing needle and coordinating thread for attaching snaps
- Blocking mats and pins
Abbreviations
- beg: beginning
- BLO: back loop only
- ch: chain
- ch-sp: chain space
- cont: continue
- dc: double crochet
- dec: decrease
- hdc: half double crochet
- hbhdc: herringbone half double crochet
- inc: increase (2 stitches in same stitch)
- pm: place marker
- rem: remaining
- rep: repeat
- rnd: round
- RS: right side
- sc: single crochet
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- sk: skip
- sl st: slip stitch
- sm: stitch marker
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- t-ch: turning chain
- WS: wrong side
- yo: yarn over
Special Stitches
- Herringbone Half Double Crochet (hbhdc): yarn over, insert hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Instead of drawing through all 3 loops like a regular hdc, draw through only the first loop on hook (2 loops remaining). Yarn over and draw through both remaining loops. Practice a 20-stitch swatch for at least 6 rows before starting.
- Herringbone Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hbhdc2tog): yarn over, insert hook in first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull that loop through the second loop on hook (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull that loop through the second loop on hook (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, draw through all 3 remaining loops.
- Standing Single Crochet: make a slip knot with new yarn and place on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through both loops.
Gauge & Size
- Finished size: 0 to 3 months — romper chest 14 inches, length from shoulder snap to crotch snap 13 inches, rise 5 inches; bonnet fits head circumference 14 to 15 inches; bootie sole 3.5 inches
- Gauge: 17 stitches x 12 rows = 4 inches in hbhdc with the 4.0mm hook, blocked; 18 stitches x 20 rows = 4 inches in sc with the 3.5mm hook
- Construction: romper in two flat panels plus a separate bib, seamed; bonnet worked in rounds then flat; booties worked from the sole up; all hbhdc rows begin with ch 2, which does NOT count as a stitch
- Skill level: Intermediate (advanced beginner friendly)
Romper Front Panel
Front lower body: using Color A and the 4.0mm hook, ch 61.
Row 1 (RS): Starting in 3rd ch from hook (skipped ch does not count), work hbhdc across. Turn. (59 hbhdc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (59 hbhdc)
Rows 3 through 10: Rep Row 2, turning after each row. (59 hbhdc at end of every row)
Checkpoint: after Row 10, the lower body panel should measure approximately 3.5 inches tall and 13.75 inches wide — the widest point of the bubble body.
Row 11 (RS): Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (57 hbhdc)
Row 12: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (55 hbhdc)
Row 13: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (53 hbhdc)
Row 14: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (51 hbhdc)
Checkpoint: after Row 14 the panel should measure approximately 5 inches tall. Mark the center bottom 9 stitches with a stitch marker for crotch snap placement.
Left leg — Row 15 (RS): Ch 2, hbhdc across first 15 sts only. Turn, leaving rem 36 sts unworked. (15 hbhdc)
Row 16: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (15 hbhdc)
Row 17: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to end. Turn. (14 hbhdc)
Row 18: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (14 hbhdc)
Row 19: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to end. Turn. (13 hbhdc)
Fasten off Color A and place a marker at the top left edge stitch.
Center crotch panel: with RS facing, skip 3 sts after the left section (these form the inner leg curve) and rejoin Color A.
Row 15C: Ch 2, hbhdc across next 15 sts. Turn. (15 hbhdc)
Rows 16C through 17C: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (15 hbhdc)
Fasten off. Mark the 4 snap positions evenly across this strip.
Right leg: with RS facing, skip 3 sts after the center crotch panel and rejoin Color A.
Row 15R (RS): Ch 2, hbhdc across rem 15 sts. Turn. (15 hbhdc)
Row 16R: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (15 hbhdc)
Row 17R: Ch 2, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (14 hbhdc)
Row 18R: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (14 hbhdc)
Row 19R: Ch 2, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (13 hbhdc)
Fasten off Color A and place a marker at the top right edge stitch.
Front Bib Panel
Using Color B and the 4.0mm hook, ch 43.
Row 1 (RS): Starting in 3rd ch from hook, hbhdc across. Turn. (41 hbhdc)
Rows 2 through 14: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (41 hbhdc at end of each row)
Row 15 (RS): Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc across to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (39 hbhdc)
Row 16: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc across to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (37 hbhdc)
Row 17: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc across to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (35 hbhdc)
Row 18 (RS): Ch 2, hbhdc across first 8 sts only. Fasten off. (8 hbhdc) This is the left strap attachment point.
With RS facing, skip the center 19 sts (neckline) and rejoin Color B.
Row 18R: Ch 2, hbhdc across rem 8 sts. Fasten off. (8 hbhdc) This is the right strap attachment point.
Checkpoint: the bib panel should measure approximately 4.75 inches tall and 9.5 inches wide at its widest. To join: with WS of bib facing WS of lower body top edge (RS facing out on both sides), and working through both layers simultaneously, sl st the bottom edge of the bib to the top edge of the lower body panel, centered horizontally — 9 stitches of lower body will extend beyond each side of the bib, forming the side underarm area. Sl st across 41 stitches and fasten off.
Romper Back Panel
Using Color A and the 4.0mm hook, ch 61.
Row 1 (RS): Starting in 3rd ch from hook, hbhdc across. Turn. (59 hbhdc)
Rows 2 through 10: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (59 hbhdc)
Row 11: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (57 hbhdc)
Row 12: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (55 hbhdc)
Row 13: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (53 hbhdc)
Row 14: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (51 hbhdc)
Leg openings: work the left side, center back crotch panel and right side exactly as for the front panel.
Back yoke — Row 1Y (RS): Rejoin Color A at the top of the back panel at the right edge. Ch 2, hbhdc across all 59 sts of Row 10 top edge. Turn. (59 hbhdc)
Rows 2Y through 8Y: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (59 hbhdc)
Row 9Y: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc across to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (57 hbhdc)
Row 10Y: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc across to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (55 hbhdc)
Row 11Y: Ch 2, hbhdc2tog, hbhdc across to last 2 sts, hbhdc2tog. Turn. (53 hbhdc)
Row 12Y (RS): Ch 2, hbhdc across first 8 sts. Fasten off. (8 hbhdc)
Skip the center 37 sts (back neckline) and rejoin Color A.
Row 12YR: Ch 2, hbhdc across rem 8 sts. Fasten off. (8 hbhdc)
Checkpoint: the full back panel with yoke should measure approximately 8 inches tall at center back.
Shoulder Straps
Make 2. Using Color A and the 4.0mm hook, ch 7.
Row 1: Starting in 3rd ch from hook, hbhdc across. Turn. (5 hbhdc)
Rows 2 through 20: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (5 hbhdc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing. Each strap should measure approximately 1.25 inches wide and 7 inches long. Attach one end of each strap to the back yoke strap points using whipstitch. The front strap ends fasten with snap buttons to the front bib strap points: sew one half of each snap to the underside of the front strap end and the corresponding half to the top of the front bib strap point.
Bonnet Pattern
The bonnet is worked in the round from the crown downward using Color A and the 4.0mm hook. Make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as st here and throughout the bonnet), work 6 hbhdc into ring, pull ring closed, join with sl st to first hbhdc. (6 hbhdc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hbhdc in each st around, join with sl st. (12 hbhdc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, (hbhdc in first st, 2 hbhdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (18 hbhdc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, (hbhdc in next 2 sts, 2 hbhdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (24 hbhdc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, (hbhdc in next 3 sts, 2 hbhdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (30 hbhdc)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, (hbhdc in next 4 sts, 2 hbhdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (36 hbhdc)
Rnd 7: Ch 2, (hbhdc in next 5 sts, 2 hbhdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (42 hbhdc)
Rnd 8: Ch 2, (hbhdc in next 6 sts, 2 hbhdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (48 hbhdc)
Rnd 9: Ch 2, (hbhdc in next 7 sts, 2 hbhdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (54 hbhdc)
Rnd 10: Ch 2, (hbhdc in next 8 sts, 2 hbhdc in next st) around, join with sl st. (60 hbhdc)
Checkpoint: after Rnd 10, the crown should measure approximately 4.5 inches in diameter.
Body Row 1 (WS): Do not join. Turn and work flat rows across the back 40 stitches of the 60-stitch round, leaving the front 20 stitches unworked (these form the face opening). Ch 2, hbhdc across 40 sts. Turn. (40 hbhdc)
Body Rows 2 through 12: Ch 2, hbhdc across. Turn. (40 hbhdc)
Checkpoint: after Body Row 12, the bonnet back should measure approximately 3.5 inches from the base of the flat section.
Ruffle Rnd 1: With RS facing, join Color A with a sl st at the right bottom corner of the bonnet. Ch 2, work 3 hbhdc in each row-end stitch along the right side edge (approximately 12 row ends = 36 sts), then work 3 hbhdc in each of the 20 face-opening sts (60 sts), then 3 hbhdc in each row-end stitch along the left side edge (approximately 12 row ends = 36 sts). Do not join, turn. (132 hbhdc total)
Ruffle Row 2: Ch 2, hbhdc across all 132 sts. Turn. (132 hbhdc)
Ruffle Row 3: Ch 2, hbhdc across all 132 sts. Fasten off. (132 hbhdc)
Tie cords: using Color A and the 4.0mm hook, make two chains each 9 inches long and fasten off. Attach one tie cord to each bottom corner of the ruffle where it meets the face opening edges.
Booties Pattern
Make 2. Each bootie is worked from the sole upward using Color A and the 3.5mm hook. Ch 12.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 10 chs, 3 sc in last ch (toe end), working back along the other side of the foundation ch: sc in next 10 chs, 2 sc in first ch (heel end). Join with sl st to first sc. (25 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next 3 sts (toe), sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in last 2 sts (heel). Join with sl st. (31 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in BLO around entire round. Join with sl st. (31 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in both loops around. Join with sl st. (31 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in both loops around. Join with sl st. (31 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in first 10 sts, (sc2tog) 5 times across toe area, sc in rem 11 sts. Join with sl st. (26 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in first 10 sts, (sc2tog) 3 times, sc in rem 10 sts. Join with sl st. (23 sc)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc around. Join with sl st. (23 sc)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc around. Join with sl st. (23 sc)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 st) around, adjusting as needed to complete the round evenly (8 ch-1-sps). Join with sl st. (15 sc and 8 ch-1-sps)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc around including 1 sc into each ch-1-sp. Join with sl st. (23 sc)
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc around. Fasten off. (23 sc)
Thread one 18 inch ribbon through the ch-1-sps of Rnd 10 and tie in a bow at the center front. The completed bootie should measure 3.5 inches sole length and approximately 2.25 inches tall from sole to cuff top.
Strawberry Appliqués
Make one strawberry for the romper bib, one for the bonnet, and one for each bootie — 4 in total for the complete set. Using Color C and the 3.5mm hook, make a magic ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 sc into ring, pull ring closed, join with sl st. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around, join with sl st. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around, join with sl st. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc around, join with sl st. (24 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) around, join with sl st. (18 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (sc in next st, sc2tog) around, join with sl st. (12 sc)
Stuff lightly with a small amount of scrap yarn or fiberfill.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc2tog around, join with sl st. (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 inch tail. Thread the tail through the rem 6 sts, pull tight to close, and weave in the tail. Using Color F yarn and a needle, embroider small seed dots across the surface using straight stitches. For the green calyx, use Color D to create small leaf shapes at the top of each strawberry. Add white blossoms using Color E with a yellow center in Color F. Attach the completed appliqués to the romper bib, bonnet and booties using coordinating thread and a sewing needle.
Finishing & Assembly
Block the front and back panels lightly before seaming. Place front and back panels with RS together and whipstitch or mattress stitch the side seams from underarm down to the top of the leg openings on each side. Seam the inseam by joining the center crotch panels of front and back. Sew 4 snap buttons evenly spaced across the crotch opening. Work one round of sc edging around each leg opening using Color A, join with sl st and fasten off, and work one round of sc edging around the neckline and armhole edges. Attach the shoulder straps as described above.
Block all pieces before final assembly for a polished look, weave in all ends securely — especially on baby items that will be washed frequently — and test the snap buttons for security before gifting.
Tips
Practice the herringbone stitch on a 20-stitch swatch for at least 6 rows before you start — once it clicks, you will fly through the set.
Remember that the ch 2 at the start of every hbhdc row does NOT count as a stitch. That one note keeps all your counts accurate.
Weave in all ends as you go on the appliqués before attaching them to the main pieces.
Wash the completed items on a gentle cycle and lay flat to dry.

Blush Pink Strawberry Baby Romper Set Free Crochet Pattern
Materials
Steps
- Work the romper front lower body with crotch shaping and leg openings
- Work the cream bib panel and slip stitch it to the lower body across 41 sts
- Work the back panel, crotch shaping and back yoke with strap points
- Make 2 shoulder straps and attach with snap buttons
- Assemble the romper: side seams, inseam, crotch snaps and edging
- Work the bonnet crown to 60 sts, then flat body rows and the 132-st ruffle
- Make 2 booties from the sole up and thread the ribbon bows
- Make 4 strawberry appliqués and sew them to the bib, bonnet and booties
- Swatch the herringbone stitch first — the ch 2 never counts as a stitch
- Block panels lightly before seaming for a polished finish
- Weave in ends as you go on the appliqués
- Test all snap buttons for security before gifting