Lavender Diamond Granny Tote Crochet Pattern

That gorgeous lavender cotton in your stash has been waiting for exactly this project, I promise! We will crochet four flower-centre granny squares, join them into a ring, and build a tote with a structured oval base that actually holds its shape.

The two-colour design creates beautiful stepped diamond frames radiating from each ivory flower centre. Dense single crochet bands at the top and bottom give the bag real stability, and the straps are sturdy enough for everyday carrying.

This is an intermediate project. It helps to be comfortable joining rounds, working continuous spirals for the base, and seaming pieces together, but if you have made a few granny squares before, you are ready to level up with me.

Materials

• 500 metres sturdy worsted weight cotton yarn in lavender, Color A, plus 15 percent extra for safety
• 300 metres sturdy worsted weight cotton yarn in ivory, Color B, plus 15 percent extra for safety
• 4 mm crochet hook, for the squares
• 3.5 mm crochet hook, for bands and straps
• Tapestry needle
• 8 stitch markers
• Scissors
• Optional: cotton lining fabric, 80 x 50 cm
• Optional: two 60 cm lengths of 20 mm cotton webbing to stabilise the handles

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• st/sts: stitch / stitches
• sp: space
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• rep: repeat
• inc: increase, 2 stitches worked into one stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet two together, a decrease
• dc2tog: double crochet two together, a decrease

Gauge & Size

• Square gauge: one blocked 7-round square measures 18 cm along each side; four squares give a 72 cm circumference
• Band gauge: approximately 20 single crochet stitches per 10 cm
• Finished size: approximately 34 to 36 cm wide when laid flat and 25 to 28 cm high, with a handle drop of about 23 to 25 cm
• Construction: four squares seamed into a ring, oval spiral base sewn to the body, dense top and bottom bands, folded straps and optional tassels and lining
• Skill level: Intermediate

A few working notes before we start: work all joined rounds with the right side always facing you. Ch 3 counts as a double crochet and you join to its top, while ch 1 before single crochet does not count as a stitch, and turning chains do not count as a stitch unless a step says so. Change colours on the final pull-through of the last stitch before joining, or fasten off and join the new colour neatly.

Flower Square Pattern

Make four squares. Each one has an ivory flower centre with lavender framing and a thin ivory accent stripe.

Round 1, Color B (Ivory): Work into an adjustable ring: ch 3, work 11 dc, join to top of ch-3. (12 dc)

Tighten your centre ring so there is no gap.

Round 2, Color B: Ch 3, dc in same st. Work 2 dc in each of the remaining 11 sts, join. (24 dc)

Work loosely enough that your round lies flat. The paired stitches form the radiating flower centre.

Round 3, Color B: Ch 3, work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same st for your first corner. Dc in the next 5 sts. Repeat the following 3 more times: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next st, dc in next 5 sts. Join. (36 dc, four corner ch-2 spaces, 9 dc between corner spaces)

Round 4, Color A (Lavender): Join Color A in any corner space. In each corner, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Work dc in every dc along each side. Join. (52 dc total, 13 dc between corners)

Round 5, Color A: Repeat Round 4, working a stitch in every side stitch. (68 dc, 17 dc between corners)

Round 6, Color B: Repeat Round 4. (84 dc, 21 dc between corners)

Round 7, Color A: Repeat Round 4. (100 dc, 25 dc between corners)

Fasten off. Block each square to 18 x 18 cm without distorting the corner angles. All four squares must match in size. On the right side you will see a large pale centre with broad lavender framing and a thin ivory accent stripe.

Body Ring Pattern

Arrange your four squares side by side with all right sides facing up. Sew the adjacent vertical edges using Color B through the outer loops only. Match the 25 dc between the corner spaces, then secure each corner with 2 small stitches.

Join the last square to the first to form a ring, leaving the top and bottom open. When you lay the ring flat, centre one square on the front, and the seams will sit near the curved side edges.

Oval Base Pattern

Switch to your smaller hook for the base, and work in continuous rounds from Round 1 onwards, placing a marker in your first stitch.

Round 1, Color A: Ch 22. Sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 19 ch, work 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate to work along the underside: sc in next 19 ch, work 2 sc in the last ch beside the first sc. (44 sts)

You now have 19 straight stitches on each side and 3 turning stitches at each end.

Round 2: Work 2 sc in first st, sc in next 19 sts, inc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 19 sts, inc in each of last 2 sts. (50 sts)

Round 3: (Sc, inc), sc 19, (sc, inc) 3 times, sc 19, (sc, inc) twice. (56 sts)

Rounds 4 through 9: For each round n, work (sc in next n-2 sts, inc) once, sc 19, (sc in next n-2 sts, inc) 3 times, sc 19, (sc in next n-2 sts, inc) twice. For Round 9, you will work 7 sc before each increase. (Round 4 = 62 sts, Round 5 = 68 sts, Round 6 = 74 sts, Round 7 = 80 sts, Round 8 = 86 sts, Round 9 = 92 sts)

Rounds 10 through 18: Continue the same oval formula, keeping the 19-stitch straight sections aligned from round to round. Round 10 uses 8 sc before each increase, and Round 18 uses 16 sc before each increase. (Round 10 = 98 sts, Round 11 = 104 sts, Round 12 = 110 sts, Round 13 = 116 sts, Round 14 = 122 sts, Round 15 = 128 sts, Round 16 = 134 sts, Round 17 = 140 sts, Round 18 = 146 sts)

Base fit check: your final base has 146 stitches, which equals about 73 cm perimeter at gauge. Measure it against the 72 cm blocked square ring, and you will ease about 1 cm during sewing. If your base is more than 2 cm too large or too small, adjust your hook size and remake the final rounds rather than forcing folds into the join.

Base wall: Work 1 round of sc in back loops only. (146 sts)

Then work 4 rounds of sc in both loops. (146 sts each round)

This creates a structured rim rising from the oval. Sl st to join, and fasten off with a long sewing tail.

Body Bands Pattern

Lower body border, Color B: Join Color B at one lower square corner. Around each square bottom, work 1 sc in each of its 25 dc and 2 sc in each corner space, giving 29 sc per square. (116 sts total)

At the shared seam corners, each square contributes its own 2 sc. Join, ch 1, and work a second round of 116 sc. Join and fasten off.

Joining the base to the body: quarter-mark both the base and the body. Match your markers and sew with Color A through both layers using small whipstitches. Each quarter matches 29 body sts to either 36 or 37 base sts, so make 2 base attachments to one body st at 7 or 8 evenly spaced positions in that quarter, and do not skip body stitches. The different stitch densities are intentional, because the measured circumferences must match.

Top Band Round 1, Color B: Work 116 sc around the top exactly as you did at the lower body edge. Join, and use the larger hook if this round contracts the squares.

Top Band Round 2, Color A: Ch 1. Distribute 28 increases by repeating (sc 3, inc) 28 times, then sc 4. (144 sts)

Switch to the smaller hook after this round.

Top Band Rounds 3 through 8: Sc in each stitch, joining every round. (144 sts per round)

Finish with one loose sl st round. The opening should remain about 72 cm around, without flaring or cinching. If your gauge differs, recalculate the top band target from circumference times sc per cm and distribute the increases evenly.

Strap Pattern

Make two straps in Color A with the smaller hook.

Foundation: Ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and next 5. (6 sts)

Ch 1, turn, and repeat rows of 6 sc until your strip measures 60 cm. Make two.

Fold each strip lengthwise and whipstitch the long edges together for a thick narrow strap, leaving 4 cm flat at both ends for sewing. For less stretch, enclose the cotton webbing inside before seaming.

Attaching the handles: lay your bag flat with the front motif centred. Mark two attachment points on the front about 8 cm apart, and matching points on the back. Sew each flat strap end 4 cm down inside the top band using a rectangle and diagonal cross pattern, sewing through several rows and not only the top loops. Both handles must have the same drop, so pull gently to check the attachment before adding weight.

Tassels, make 2 in Color A: wrap yarn 35 times around a 10 cm piece of cardboard. Tie a doubled 20 cm strand through the top, cut the bottom loops, then bind firmly 1.5 cm below the top and trim the ends even. Attach one tassel to each side seam just below the top band, weaving the attachment tails deeply through at least 3 cm of fabric.

Finishing & Assembly

Optional cotton lining: measure your actual inside width and height, and cut two fabric rectangles to the measured flat width plus 2 cm and height plus 2 cm. Sew the sides and bottom with 1 cm seam allowances, and box the lower corners to match your measured base depth. Turn the upper edge under 1 cm, press, and hand sew just below the top band, catching yarn on the inside only. Keep the lining slightly roomy, and place the handle reinforcing ends between the lining and the crochet.

Weave all yarn ends through several directions so they stay secure. Support the base while shaping, and dry flat after any wet blocking.

Test your tote with a light load first, checking the base seam and strap attachments. Cotton stretches over time, so add the lining and reinforced straps before carrying heavier items.

Tips

Blocking is essential here. Your squares need to match exactly, so take the time to wet block or steam block each one to 18 x 18 cm.

Do not skip the gauge swatch. The maths for the base and body connection only works if your gauge matches, and a few minutes of swatching saves hours of frustration.

Consider the lining. Cotton crochet stretches and can show wear over time, and a simple cotton lining protects your work and keeps small items from poking through.

Reinforce those straps. The cotton webbing option is not just for looks, it prevents the straps from stretching out under the weight of your belongings.