Lavender Fields Granny Square Bag Free Crochet Pattern

This lavender fields granny square bag makes me so happy, because it combines classic granny square construction with the sweetest dimensional lavender embellishments, and the result is pure cottage-core perfection! If you have been looking for a project that looks absolutely stunning but still feels achievable, this is it.

The construction breaks down into manageable chunks. We make 18 granny squares, join them into two panels, shape the panels slightly, add lavender sprigs with surface crochet and embroidery, join the panels together, and finish with handles and a wooden button. The rounded silhouette comes from a simple trick: on the shaping rounds we skip the corner increases on three of the four corners, so the fabric pulls inward naturally at the bottom.

The lavender embellishments are added after the panels are blocked, which makes placement so much easier, because you are decorating a flat surface rather than trying to work three-dimensional elements into your crochet as you go. Set aside a weekend or two, grab your favourite cotton yarn, and let us make something beautiful together!

Materials

• Worsted weight 100% cotton yarn, Yarn A (main colour, cream): approximately 650 yards (595 meters)
• Worsted weight 100% cotton yarn, Yarn B (lavender/purple): approximately 80 yards (73 meters)
• Worsted weight 100% cotton yarn, Yarn C (green): approximately 60 yards (55 meters)
• US G-6 (4.0mm) crochet hook
• 2 wooden rings, approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter
• 1 wooden button, approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) in diameter
• Tapestry needle, for weaving ends and embellishment
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Blocking mat and pins (optional but recommended)
• Optional: thin cotton fabric for lining, approximately 0.5 yard (0.45 meter)

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• sp: space
• ch-sp: chain space
• sk: skip
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rep: repeat
• pm: place marker
• rm: remove marker
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• JAYG: join as you go
• tog: together
• yo: yarn over
• rnd(s): round(s)

Special Stitches

• Granny Cluster (gr-cl): yarn over, insert hook into indicated chain space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops (one dc started but not completed). Repeat twice more in the same space, so you have three started dc, then yarn over and pull through all four loops on hook. This creates a three-double-crochet cluster worked into one space. Throughout this pattern, each granny square corner is a (gr-cl, ch 2, gr-cl) worked into a ch-2 corner space, and each side is one gr-cl worked into a ch-1 space between corner clusters.
• Scallop Stitch: work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) all into the same stitch or space. This creates one scallop shell, and each scallop is separated by a slip stitch into the next stitch.
• Surface Slip Stitch (for stems): with the right side facing and working yarn held behind the fabric, insert hook from front to back through a stitch, draw up a loop of the working yarn through the fabric, then through the loop on hook. Move to the next stitch position and repeat. This creates a visible chain of stitches on the surface.
• Lavender Sprig Cluster (for embellishment): using Yarn B threaded on a tapestry needle, come up from the wrong side of the fabric at the base of where a lavender blossom will sit. Work 5 to 7 small straight stitches of varying heights, between 0.25 and 0.5 inch (6 to 12 mm) long, fanning them slightly to create the appearance of a lavender flower head. Return the needle to the wrong side and fasten off. Three such clusters are worked per square to create a full lavender sprig.

Gauge & Size

• Gauge: one completed granny square measures 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) after blocking. In single crochet worked in rows, 16 stitches and 18 rows equals 4 inches (10 cm). Gauge is critical for this project because cotton has very little stretch
• Finished size: approximately 13 inches wide by 11 inches tall (33 cm by 28 cm), not including handles, with a depth of approximately 2.5 inches (6.5 cm) at the widest point and a handle drop of approximately 8 inches (20 cm)
• Construction: two identical panels of 9 squares each in a 3 x 3 grid joined as you go, shaped with sc rounds, embellished after blocking, joined at the sides and bottom, finished with a scallop border, ring handles and a button loop closure
• Skill level: Intermediate

When joining squares using JAYG, replace the ch 2 at the joining corner or the ch 1 at the joining side with: ch 1, sl st into the corresponding ch-sp of the adjacent completed square, ch 1. This creates a flat, nearly invisible join. Chain 3 at the beginning of a round counts as the first dc of a cluster only when specified. Block each panel before joining; cotton blocks beautifully with wet blocking.

Granny Square Pattern

Make 18 total, 9 per panel. Begin each square with Yarn A.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 2 dc into ring, ch 2, (3 dc into ring, ch 2) 3 times. Sl st into top of beginning ch-3 to join. Pull ring closed. (4 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Round 2: Sl st into each of next 2 dc, sl st into ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc of first cluster). Work 2 dc into same corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc into same corner sp (first corner made). Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1. Rep 2 more times. Sl st into top of beginning ch-3. Stitch check: 8 groups of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 4 ch-1 side spaces.

Round 3: Sl st into each of next 2 dc, sl st into ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3, 2 dc into same corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc into same corner sp (corner made). Ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Rep from the corner instruction 2 more times to complete the round. Sl st into top of beginning ch-3. Stitch check: 12 groups of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 8 ch-1 side spaces.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Each completed square should measure 4 inches (10 cm) square.

Panel Shaping Pattern

Joining squares into panels (make 2 panels): arrange 9 squares in a 3-column by 3-row grid on a flat surface, right sides facing up. We join them using JAYG on the final round of each square as we add it to the panel. The first square (top left position) is already complete. Each subsequent square is worked through Round 2 independently, then its Round 3 is worked as a JAYG round. For the JAYG Round 3 of any square being added, work the side or sides that face an already-completed square using the JAYG method: at a ch-1 sp on the joining side, replace ch 1 with ch 1, sl st into corresponding ch-1 sp on completed square, ch 1; at a ch-2 corner sp on the joining corner, replace ch 2 with ch 1, sl st into corresponding ch-2 corner sp of completed square, ch 1. Position order: Position 1 (top left) complete independently; Position 2 (top centre) joins to the right side of Position 1; Position 3 (top right) joins to Position 2; Position 4 (middle left) joins to the bottom of Position 1; Position 5 (middle centre) joins to the bottom of Position 2 and the right side of Position 4; Position 6 (middle right) joins to the bottom of Position 3 and the right side of Position 5; Position 7 (bottom left) joins to the bottom of Position 4; Position 8 (bottom centre) joins to the bottom of Position 5 and the right side of Position 7; Position 9 (bottom right) joins to the bottom of Position 6 and the right side of Position 8. A completed panel measures approximately 12 inches wide by 12 inches tall (30.5 cm), and all joins should lie flat.

Shaping Round 1 (edging round, worked in sc): Join Yarn A with a sl st to the ch-2 corner sp at the top right corner of the panel. Ch 1 (does not count as st). Work sc evenly around the entire panel as follows: along each straight outer side of each square, work 3 sc into each ch-1 side sp and 1 sc into each joining sl st between squares. At each outer corner ch-2 sp of each square, work (sc, ch 1, sc) into the ch-2 sp. At each inner corner where squares meet at a shared corner point, work 1 sc into the joint. At the four outermost corners of the entire panel, work (sc, ch 2, sc) to create a proper corner turn. Aim for approximately 37 sc along each side of the panel, adjusting by adding or removing 1 sc per square side section if needed. (Total approximately 152 sc plus 4 ch-2 corner sps) Sl st to first sc to join. Do not turn.

Shaping Round 2 (bottom rounding round, worked in sc): The top edge of the panel (the opening of the bag) is worked straight, and the other corners are rounded by omitting the corner ch-2 increases. Ch 1. Sc in each sc across the top edge (37 sts), sc in ch-2 corner sp (no ch-2 increase, just sc), sc in each sc down the right side (37 sts), sc in ch-2 corner sp (no ch-2 increase, just sc), sc in each sc across the bottom (37 sts), sc in ch-2 corner sp (no ch-2 increase, just sc), sc in each sc up the left side (37 sts), sl st to first sc. (152 sc)

Shaping Round 3 (reinforcement round): Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Sl st to first sc to join. (152 sc)

Fasten off Yarn A and weave in ends. Each shaped panel should now have a gently rounded bottom edge and a straight top edge, measuring approximately 13 inches wide at its widest point and approximately 11.5 inches from the straight top edge to the lowest point of the rounded bottom.

Finishing & Assembly

Lavender embellishment (work on both panels before joining): wet block each panel first by submerging in cool water, gently squeezing out excess water, laying flat on a blocking mat, pinning to measurements (13 in wide, 11.5 in tall), and allowing to dry completely. Stems: each granny square receives one lavender sprig in its centre. The stem begins approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) up from the centre of the square and runs upward approximately 1.25 inches (3 cm). For each of the 9 squares per panel, join Yarn C with a sl st through the fabric at the base of the stem position and work approximately 6 surface slip stitches upward, angling them slightly to create a natural stem curve. At the top of the stem, work 2 to 3 sl sts branching left and 2 to 3 branching right for small side branches, then fasten off on the WS. Leaves: using Yarn C and a tapestry needle, work 2 to 3 small straight stitches at the base of the stem on each side, approximately 0.375 inch (1 cm) long, angled outward at 45 degrees. Blossoms: using Yarn B on a tapestry needle, work the Lavender Sprig Cluster stitch at the top of each stem, 3 clusters side by side, filling approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) of width and 0.5 inch (1.5 cm) of height, with the shortest stitches at the outer edges and the longest in the centre. Weave in all embellishment ends on the WS and press lightly with a damp cloth.

Scallop border on the top edge (work on each panel separately): join Yarn A with a sl st to the first sc at the top left corner of the top edge. Ch 1. Work the Scallop Stitch as follows: sc in first sc, then [sk 1 sc, sl st in next sc, sk 1 sc, work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) all into next sc] across the top edge, working the final scallop to end at the last sc of the top edge. Sc in final sc. Sl st to first sc to join. The top edge has 37 sc; the scallop repeat uses 4 sts, so 37 sts accommodate 9 full scallops using 36 sts, plus 1 sc at each end. (9 scallops) Fasten off Yarn A and weave in the end.

Joining the two panels: hold both panels with RS facing outward (WS together). With Yarn A, join yarn with a sl st through both layers at the top right corner of the right side edge, just below the scallop border. Ch 1. Working through both layers simultaneously, sc evenly down the right side, across the bottom curved edge, and up the left side, working approximately 3 sc per 4-row equivalent of edge and 1 sc into each sc of the outer edge. At the bottom curve, follow the natural curve of the fabric without adding extra sts at corners. Stop at the top left corner of the left side edge, just below the scallop border. Do not join the top edge; it stays open as the bag opening. The total join seam is approximately 75 to 80 sc along each side and bottom combined. Fasten off Yarn A and weave in the end. After joining, the bag should stand up on its own with a rounded bottom, and the sides should be approximately 2 to 2.5 inches deep.

Handle straps (make 2): With Yarn A, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (6 sc)

Repeat Row 2 until strap measures 9 inches (23 cm) from foundation chain. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail for sewing. Fold the strap in half, threading the fold through one wooden ring so the ring sits at the midpoint of the folded strap. Align the two raw ends against the inside top edge of the bag, centred on one side panel (approximately 3.5 inches or 9 cm in from each top corner). Sew the double thickness of strap ends firmly to the bag using the tapestry needle and the long yarn tail, whipstitching or mattress stitching through both layers of strap and the top edge of the bag, sewing at least 1.5 inches (4 cm) of the strap end to the bag. Repeat for the second handle on the other side.

Button closure: with Yarn A, join yarn with a sl st to the centre top edge of the front panel at the midpoint of the scallop border. Ch 12. Sl st back into the same stitch on the bag to form a loop. Work sc back along the 12 ch sts (12 sc). Sl st to base of loop. Fasten off and weave in ends. Check that the wooden button passes through the loop comfortably, and adjust the chain count by 1 or 2 if needed. On the back panel, at the corresponding centre top position, sew the wooden button securely using Yarn A doubled on the tapestry needle, passing through the button holes at least 8 times and tying off securely on the WS.

Weave in all remaining ends on the WS, working each tail back through at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of stitches in two different directions. For the optional lining, cut two pieces of lining fabric, each 14 inches wide by 12.5 inches tall (35.5 cm by 32 cm). With RS together, sew the side and bottom seams using a 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance, rounding the bottom corners slightly. Fold the top edge down by 0.75 inch (2 cm) and press. Insert the lining into the bag with WS of lining facing WS of bag, and slip stitch the folded top edge to the inside of the bag just below the scallop border. Wet blocking is strongly recommended for the finished bag: soak in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes, roll in a clean towel to remove excess moisture, shape over a blocking form or stuffed plastic bag, pin the top edge straight and the bottom curve smooth, and allow to dry completely in a well-ventilated area, which may take 24 hours for cotton.

Tips

Take your time with the join-as-you-go technique. It feels fiddly at first, but once you get the rhythm it creates such a clean, professional look that it is worth the learning curve.

When adding the lavender embellishments, work on a flat surface with good lighting, and use pins to mark where each sprig will go before you start stitching. If surface crochet is new to you, practise on a swatch first so the stitches sit on top of the fabric without puckering it.

Do not skip the blocking step. Cotton really opens up and relaxes when wet blocked, and your granny squares will look so much more even and professional afterward.

For care, machine wash on a gentle cycle in cold water, placing the bag inside a mesh laundry bag to protect the embellishments and wooden rings, and remove the wooden rings before washing if possible. Lay flat to dry, do not tumble dry, and store stuffed with tissue paper to maintain the rounded shape.